Rough Crossing

Looking out of the port hole as I rose out of my bunk, I could see the iron grey clouds scudding across my limited vista.  Pressing my face closer to the glass I could see that the harbour was covered in white caps, and every now and then a southerly wind gust would whip spray off the surface and into the air like a dust devil in the desert.
It was going to be long day.

Cook Strait Roll on, Roll off Ferry Aranui

I had been rostered to the Aranui now for a few months and was getting used to the ways of this 4,160 gross ton roll on roll off ferry. Jumping into the shower I tried to substitute hot water for sleep, a commodity all too scarce aboard ship with a schedule including two return trips a day between the North and South Islands of New Zealand. It would be busy today, as it was yesterday. In spite of the atrocious looking weather beyond the port hole, this was the height of the summer holidays and holiday makers kept a steady stream between the islands.
Dressing in my merchant naval officers’ uniform, and quickly making my way to the officers’ saloon for breakfast. I mentally noted the day of the week and was pleased  that minute steaks would be on the menu.  Entering the saloon, Jack the head steward was fussing over one of my colleagues at the Pursers table. Jack was truly of the old school, perfectly starched white jacket, black trousers and napkin over his arm as he poured tea out of the silver pot. He felt it was his duty to educate us young Pursers in the ways befitting officers in his domain.
“Morning, Jack, Rob”, I said greeting my colleague who was already seated as well as nodding to Jack when he offered the coffee pot.
“Yeah, g’day”, came back Rob rather less than enthusiastically.
“Bad night?” I asked.
“That bloody second steward is a stich-up artist” said Rob taking a bite of toast.
“Oh, don’t tell me, you didn’t go join the card game, did you?”
Rob looked up sheepishly. “Yeah, and he was pouring the bourbon too. Only got to bed at oh five hundred”.
“Well I guess you’re going to enjoy today then, looks like a lovely day out there. Think of wall to wall puking punters on every trip. Lovely jubbly”, I said cheerily.
“Yeah thanks for that” Rob groaned, “well I better get up to the Bureau and open up before the chief turns to”.
“See you there”, I said as Jack placed my minute steak before me. I ate it with gusto as it may be the only meal I would actually eat in the saloon today, as all other meals would be served while we were in open water which would be very uncomfortable. The saloon was located in the forward part of the superstructure, so when heading into a large sea it would be akin to sitting on the end of a bouncing diving board trying to eat a meal.
Feeling suitably satiated I made my way to the Pursers Bureau ready for another day on duty. Rob was already ensconced at the desk within the bureau. The Pursers Bureau was located in the main vestibule area which ran the width of the ship. Where the door went to the outside deck on each side it was directly opposite where the gangway was connected from the wharf, so passengers when they boarded either turned immediately left of right to remain on the narrow outside deck or straight ahead to enter the vestibule area. The entrance from our cabin area into the vestibule area was from the forward part of the ship. The Bureau and the refreshment shop were next to each other in the rear wall of the vestibule and therefore facing forward. The pursers bureau had a grille across the counter, for as well as being an information point for passengers, the Pursers tasks also involved paying the crew. In the mid 70’s, to a man they all got paid in cash in little brown envelopes all prepared in this bureau, so a little security was necessary.

The way the bureau was lit up compared to the soft light in the rest of the vestibule made it look from the outside a little like a mini stage, highlighted a bit by the light shining off the white shirts worn by those inside.

I could see that Rob was at the rear desk preparing some paperwork, while John the Chief Purser was sitting on the stool at the front counter giving Rob a hard time about his less than successful night with the cards. I entered the door between the bureau grille and the shop front which took me into a small dark alcove with a door leading to the shop and opposite that one to the Pursers bureau.  The shop door was open, and Big Julie as he liked to call himself was busy stacking shelves.  He looked up and with a mischievous grin and lisped, “oh come into my parlour you  delectable morsel”.

I smiled back and said, “nice offer Jules, but you know how it is, got to get to work”.

I tried the bureau door and it was locked.  Rob must be counting out money.

I went back out the way I came and showed myself at the grille, and went back in as John opened the door for me.

“So what time is this to be turning to?, John drawled.

“I was on the late drive”, I came  back. “We got in late too, docked at 02:45″.

I knew he knew this but it was all part of the repartee that had to be gone through.

“I suppose you guys are aware of the weather forecast for today”, said John holding a printout.  ”We’ve got Southerly Gales in the strait which are supposed to hang around for the next two days.  We also have full loads for every sailing, as expected in the school holidays”.  John looked up to see if we were still listening.  I was actually pretending to mess up Robs tidy little piles of money he was preparing the crews pay.  We were all of an age, in our early 20′s, so there was plenty of monkeying around, but we also knew when to be serious.

John slapped the printout on the counter, and in mock indignation cried, “Now listen to me, I’m the chief!”.

Rob and I laughed at this.  ”Ok chief, we’re all ears”.

“That’s more like it”, said John picking the weather sheet back up.  ”Now, as you know in the holidays the captain will sometimes elect to leave two of the four rakes of rail behind to try and get extra cars on the rail deck.  Today that won’t happen, because he wants every bit of ballast he can lay his hands on to keep the ship heavy in the water.  This means less cars will get on, but we can let more foot passengers on as a result.  We have to be very vigilant with the numbers we let on board, remember the maximum allowed, not one more than that.”

“Right chief, who is doing cars?” I asked.

“The Bean is down there now”, said John.  Some of us had earned nick names either derived from our own names, or as a memory of something infamous we had done at some point.  The Bean was one of the former.

“After you go and get the updated weather from the bridge, go down and see if he needs a hand.  I’ll need you back on the gang way to help Rob at 09:30.  I’ll be having a coffee with the Tracker in his cabin.”  He looked at us over his glasses, “that’s “Chief Steward” to you two mugs, now lets see some action”.

” I grabbed some papers I needed to take to the bridge and let myself out of the bureau.  Big wink from Big Jules and I was out the second door.  Exiting the vestibule by the starboard door I was out on the narrow deck.  Some seamen were securing the gangways which would soon be allowing hundreds of passengers to board the ship.  I walked forward along the wooden deck which was covered by the deck above, open to the weather above the railing, but solid metal below the railing. Walking forward I passed the passenger cafeteria where food smells were wafting through the open door, entered a pair of double doors with a high water resisting sill, and I was in the forward passenger lounge. This large area taking up the forward part of the superstructure of the ship had large windows on three sides, facing forward, port and starboard.  An ominous sign of conditions ahead was brought home by the sight of seamen affixing large heavy metal plates to the outside covering each of the forward facing windows.  Even though we were high above the water on this deck whilst floating serenely in the harbour, it brought home the fact that it would be a different story out in the open water.

Taking the stairway at the rear of the lounge I climbed up, emerging at the rear of the bridge where I had a panoramic view of the harbour in front of us.  It was still getting whipped up by the gale force winds which also drove squalls of rain across the water.  It was all quiet on the bridge and other than rain beating against the armour plate windows there was just the hum of instruments.  Wanting to linger and take in the view, I tore myself away and went to the rear where the entrance to the radio shack was.

“Hi Sparkie”, I said cheerfully, got some stuff to send out for you.

“Hi Clerky”, he came back.  That’s right Roger didn’t like to be called Sparkie, oh well, will remember next time.

“Ok point taken, anything for us?, I said sheepishly.

“Just another weather update, and it isn’t getting any prettier”

I scanned the page and had to agree.  ”It’s going to be a long day, ok better get on with it. Have a good one”, I said as I headed back out the door and back to the bureau.

Having donned my anorak and my uniform cap I made my way down  the stairway to the rail deck.  As I emerged from the door into this cavernous area which was essentially the cargo area, I checked for cars or trains coming past in the confined space.  There were two railway lines on each side stretching right from the stern to the bow, and trains were loaded over a draw bridge called a link span which was inlayed with railway tracks.  Each rake of rail as it was called was then shunted across the link span and down one of the four tracks within the ship.  As rakes of rail were loaded and unloaded the ship would noticeably list one way or the other as the shift in weight occurred.  As soon as the rake of rail was in place on the ship there was a hive of activity as seamen quickly secured the train to eyes in the deck with bottle screws which had been placed at the ready.

I dodged my way round some seamen as they were about this task, and more again who were directing passenger cars into small gaps left over after the rail was in place.  Onto the link span and I zipped up my anorak and pushed my  cap more firmly onto my head, a wave to the second mate who was directing the loading of the ship.

I found the Bean trying to calm some car drivers down.  As I came in ear shot it was obvious he had just informed them that they would not be going on this sailing due to the captains decision to load heavy rail in favour of lighter cars.  Taking tickets he had already collected, I was glad to get away from that sticky situation and go into the passenger terminal.  As I walked through the terminal to the office, I could feel eyes on me as nervous travellers were trying to discern any nervousness I might be showing about sailing in todays’ conditions.  Wearing a big hat makes you stand out a bit, so I kept a smile on my face as I entered the office.  A bit of friendly banter with the staff in the office and I reminded them that we would be able to take a few more foot passengers due to the reduction of private cars being carried.

Slapping on my my cap again, I let myself through the locked doors that lead to the covered ramp to the gangways back onto the ship.  Two covered gangways joined the ship to the top of the ramp area and as I crossed one of them I had to hold my hat against the wind as I emerged back onto the deck.  I took the car tickets I had to the bureau, where Rob commenced adding them to the cargo manifest.

“Lovely weather I see”, Rob remarked as he tried to separate the wet ticket coupons from each other.

“Yup”, I said. “Ships cat”

“Eh?” Rob said looking up.

“Wet and windy”, I said with a wink.

I looked at the clock.  ”Five minutes until we let the punters on, I ‘ll go and warn the chief”

Five minutes later having rung the terminal to release the hoards, I was out at the top of the ramp to take tickets off the foot passengers, or punters as we called them before they crossed the gangways onto the ship.  Just as the first punters made the top of the ramp, Rob arrived to help me.

Mostly the punters were in good humour making nervous jokes about the weather to be expected in the strait, and within 30 minutes we were ready to lift the gangway and be on our way.

Rob took the tickets back to the bureau to be counted out and added to manifest which had to be on the bridge before we cleared the harbour.  I stood on the deck near the gangway to ensure no one boarded at the last second.

Back in the bureau, the Bean was removing his wet anorak and adding to the pile of wet tickets that Rob was adding to manifest.

“I’ll take the top deck if you like”, I said to the Bean.

Now that the vessels gangways and link span had been lifted, we needed to double check the number of vehicles on board against the number of tickets we held to verify the manifest passed to the bridge was correct.  A well as the cars packed around the rakes of rail on the rail deck, there was a car garage on the main deck as well which was loaded by a side car ramp on the dock.  This garage generally held about 40 cars.  As I went back out onto the side deck and headed aft I could see that we were starting to make headway.  I remembered PD was the captain today, and leaned over the rail and looked forward to the port side bridge wing.  Sure enough, there was the hand signal for a left turn as we cleared the long arm of the wharf.  I chuckled to myself as I continued to walk aft toward the car garage.  As I entered the garage the ship started a slight lean to starboard as it made the turn to port around the long arm.  The cars in the garage were like jelly as they all moved as one on their suspension in response the shift in gravity.  Once we were in the strait their movement would be a sight to behold as the ship pounded through the rough seas.  Each car was secure by two lengths of rope to eyes in the deck to prevent movement, and the spaces in between some were barely enough to get your leg in between.  I had to find a vantage point where I could simply count them off.

Back in the bureau I confirmed the number to Rob who signed off the manifest, grabbed his cap and headed for the bridge.

“Half past tenses anyone?” said the Bean.

“That would be most acceptable”, I said, “your place?”

“Yes see you down there after Rob gets back”, said the Bean heading out the bureau door.

Beyond the bureau grille, the vestibule was full of punters wandering around exploring the ship, or just trying to find an acceptable place to plonk themselves for the trip.  As the weather was inclement, those who might have been out on deck watching the scenery go by were forced back inside to seek shelter.  Many of the passenger areas started to take on the look of a refugee camp as people made themselves at home on the floor with their belongings around them.

The ship would be inside the shelter of Wellington harbour for around 40 minutes before the first effects of the rough open waters would be felt.

Aranui in Wellington Harbour

It was always amazing to me how travel can disorient some people so much.  As the Pursers Bureau was also an information point for passengers, this is where they came with their inquiries.  A large sign was fixed across the top of the grille back lit with the words, “Pursers Bureau.”

As I sat there chatting with the chief, a tall passenger leaned under the sign and asked, “could you please tell me where I can find the Pursers Bureau?”.

The chief and I exchanged mischievousness grins.

“I swung around to face the passenger and said, “Certainly sir, if you would just step through the door here on the left, and proceed forward along the deck.  Once reaching the cafeteria, enter through that door and cross to the door to the deck on the opposite side. On that deck turn right and proceed aft until reaching the door to the vestibule and you will see the Bureau there.”

He departed on his mission while the chief and I tried to contain ourselves.

At this point Rob returned.

“Ok Rob, Stewards time sheets need to be completed on this trip, so we can prepare the pays on the way back.  Oh and there will be a passenger coming to chat to you soon.  See you in a while.”  I said, as the chief and I beat a hasty retreat.  Entering the companionway to go down to our cabins, I saw the passenger who I had kindly given directions to enter through the starboard door to the vestibule. I disappeared very quickly.

We arrived at the Beans’ cabin just in time to see the Stewardess leaving after dropping off our silver service morning tea tray.

“Morning Rosie, looking very lovely today”, said the chief.

“Thank you, yes I had this little number especially run up for you boys to enjoy”, she said doing a little spin, showing off her less than flattering stewardess uniform.  Then she was gone.

“I’ll be mother”, said the chief as he poured out cups of tea for all.

“Well, I hope that doesn’t make me father”, said the Bean pouring out three glasses of whiskey.

“Ah, gotta love half past tenses, and not a moment too soon”, I said glancing at the clock.

“So Bean, I hear you took delivery of your new Corona last week”, the chief said after a satisfying sip.

“Yeah”, the Bean drawled in his West Coast accent. “I’m pretty happy with it so far, had to do a West Coast underseal job on it though”.

“Ok, and what is that exactly?” I asked.

“Well, to stop rust underneath, I hoisted it and then painted the whole underside with old sump oil, then took it for a drive up an old dirt road.  It now has a whole protective skin underneath.” Bean explained proudly.

The chief and I looked at each other, as if to say what will they come with next down there.

After some friendly banter, the chief made to leave and turned to me and said, “when you go back to help Rob out can you remind him to put me on the shake at Dieffenbach”.  This meant the chief was going to have a nap and wanted to be awoken as we passed the above land mark located about 30 minutes before reaching Picton.

“Ok, Chief”, I said taking a quick look out of the port hole to see that we were level now with Somes Island.  Soon we would be turning toward the channel and Wellington harbour entrance.  Even in the channel we would start to feel the swells under the keel as the southerly blew straight into the channel.

As I climbed up the stairs to the vestibule I felt the ship heal to port a little as it made the turn toward the heads. Crossing the vestibule I looked out the port side door to see Ward Island slip past.  There was a group of young girls gathered around the pursers bureau counter listening intently to something Rob was saying.  I went through the two doors and came up behind him.

“..so when the Aramoana rings us to say they have finished loading at Picton, the Aranui then starts engines and pushes out from the dock in Wellington.  Now seeing as it is downhill from Wellington to Picton, gravity helps the Aranuis’ engines to pull the Aramoana on the 52 mile long cable, well 104 miles really.  When the Aramoana reaches Wellington the roles will be reversed and Aramoana will pull Aranui back up”, explained Rob very seriously.  I looked at his rapt audience, some of whom, to their credit, looked a little skeptical. Generally the group was swallowing it hook line and sinker.  Weren’t we naughty boys, but a little fun was harmless.

At that moment the ship gave a lurch as the first roller passed under the keel.  The bow rose to cross the top and immediately began a plunge down into the trough behind it. Some of the group of young ladies let out screams as they were caught unawares.  Others in the vestibule staggered as they were caught off balance, and grabbed handrails around the walls.  Passengers who were seated on the bench seat along the wall facing the pursers bureau who a moment ago had been happily chatting away now went a little quieter.  Our bevy of young ladies suddenly decided some fresh air might be a nice idea and disappeared.

Aranui climbs a swell, still within Wellington harbour

“Looks like we might get some uninterrupted time to get the seamens time-sheets done now it seems”, I said while I secured some office equipment before it flew off the desk.  Again Aranui climbed a swell, then crashed down into the trough behind it.  Finding a seat and staying there was the best move as even crossing the small bureau had to be timed right.  Rob was now at the rear desk and was feeding some forms into the old typewriter.  Through bitter experience we had found that the spring load in a normal carriage type writer was no match for the rolling of a ship.  It would perform beautifully when the roll was in the direction of the carriages travel.  However, on the opposite roll the carriage had no hope of making the uphill journey.  To this end we had attached some heavy duty rubber bands to the carriage to aide it on its uphill path.

Aranui dives into the following trough.

The pitching of the ship was now a constant regular motion as we passed from the harbour into Cook Strait proper.  The sea outside the harbour entrance was very deep, and because it shelved very steeply, the seas from the south would suddenly rear up and cause steep swells.

A larger swell passed under us and the ship reared up to cross it, those sitting on the seat across from us in the vestibule seemed to be above us looking down.  There was then a sickening lurch as if the carpet had been dragged from under us as we seemed to plummet into oblivion.  Toward the end of the downward lurch the ship started to shake like a dog trying to dry itself.  The propellers had actually been raised clear of the water and surged for a moment before the governors could take over.  At that moment the ship gave a shudder as if it had hit a padded wall.

“Shipped a greenie”,  I said to Rob.

“Yeah”, said Rod still trying to control the type writer.

“What does that mean?”, said a little voice from the grille.  We both looked round to see one of the bevvy of young ladies had returned, looking a little on the green side.

I timed the pitch of the ship and made a leap to the counter and the stool.

“Well”, I said.  ”The swells out there are very steep and close together due to the steep shelving of the sea bottom.  Because they are so close together the ship often doesn’t have time to start climbing the next wave after it has dropped from the previous one.  What happens then is the bow pushes into the wave instead of over it and there is a lot of green water that comes aboard, not just white spray.  That’s why we call it shipping a greenie, and as it hits the front of the superstructure we get that shudder.  Just as well for the metal plates over the windows, eh”.

“Glad I don’t do this too often”, she said.  ”Can I send a telegram here?”

“Sure”, I said passing a pad and pencil.

“I’m off to the radio shack”, I called to Rob as I grabbed my hat off the peg.”

I had to time my exit through the doors, as one second they weighed many times their normal weight and the next they weighed nothing and propelled you forward.  A wink from Big Julie as I passed between the doors.  Strangely the general publics’ appetite for refreshments had dried up for now.

I made for the port side door and out onto the deck.  The wind was whipping along and I had to grab my hat before it became attire for some penguin somewhere.  A few punters were also out on deck, subscribing to the theory that fresh air and keeping an eye on the horizon would enable them to keep company with their breakfast.   Here and there little piles of sawdust marked the spots where some had been unsuccessful.  As I walked forward along the deck, the ships’ movement became more pronounced, as if I was walking to end of a diving board.  As I entered the forward lounge with the metal covered windows, I found it was only half full as punters had obviously found the movement here uncomfortable.

Up the stairway to the bridge, and the vista was quite different from that of this morning.  The movement up here was much wilder as it was that much higher and further forward than the bureau area.  The sky was quite clear but the wind was howling around the windows which were almost opaque from salt spray.  The captain was at a window in the centre, inset into which was a metal ring with a high speed spinning piece of glass which kept it free of moisture and salt.  In the centre of the bridge deck was the ships wheel, behind which was a seaman with legs spread wide apart against the ships movement, concentrating on the compass in front of him.  Every now and then the captain would call a course correction to negotiate the next swell, to which the seaman instantly complied.

I had to grab a rail as the ship started to plunge into the next trough, and was almost thrown off my feet as we shipped another greenie, making the ship shudder in response. Below us the foredeck was awash with water pouring out through the scuppers and under the railings.  Like a wet spaniel, the ship shuddered and seemed to shake off the huge volumes of water that had come aboard as it once again started to climb the next wave. White sheets of spray were picked up and blown back over the ship by the strong wind, and the captains spinning window was working full time using centrifugal force to keep clear of salt and water.

Having remembered why I came here, I ducked into the radio shack and gave the operator the telegram to send.  I waited patiently while he transmitted the message and took back the slip of paper with a SENT stamp on it.

“You might also want this update”, he said, handing me an updated weather situation print out.

“It’s not getting any better, anytime soon”, I remarked.

“You’re right about that”, said the radio operator.  ”I’ve just been talking to Aramoana, and she is holding short inside Tory Channel heads.  Apparently it is very ugly there.  It must be if ‘Gale Force’ (another captains nick name) is thinking twice about it. PD asked me to check other shipping at the north end of Arapawa Island to see if I could get a report on conditions there.  He must be thinking of taking the long way in case Tory Channel Entrance is too hairy.”

“It’s going to be long day”, I muttered, taking the paper work out the door with me.

Back on the bridge I noticed out of the starboard side that the land was a lot further away than usual.  In these heavy seas it was customary to put more distance between us and leeward shore before making the right turn toward the South Island.  It is one of those strange things that to travel from the North to the South Island one spent much of the journey travelling North West.  To achieve this we had to turn from heading straight into the heavy seas to a point where the seas would be almost following us, coming in from our port quarter or slightly behind the left shoulder.  The art of turning a ship in such a sea takes precise timing, and an implicit faith in your engines to not stop at the crucial moment, in which case all would be lost.  Looking out the starboard side I could see we were now level with Sinclair Head, so the turn must come soon.  Keeping my self out of the way, I  thought I might as well stay for this one.

I could see PD was watching the waves very carefully.  Without taking his eyes off the sea he called, “Boatswain, I will shortly call for 30 degrees right rudder”

“Yes sir”, came back the replay from the stony faced man on the helm.

The radio operator came out of the shack behind me, and quietly said, “he has to time this as the ship is in a trough, and the buoyancy forward and aft is the highest. That will help to push the bow around on the next rise, making the turn quicker but also compensating for the heeling over the ship does when turning.  The most dangerous part is when we are broadside to the waves and we have to get past that point as quickly as possible.”

“Boatswain, 30 degrees left rudder, now!”, came the firm order.

The bow of the ship was just reaching the bottom of the trough, and slowly at first started it’s traverse to the right.  This started to go more quickly as the bow started to rise the next wave front.  The ship was trying to roll into the front of the wave as the heel caused by the turn pushed us over to the left.  Out the port bridge window I could just see green water mottled with streaks of white spume.  It seemed that the whole world had dissolved into water, and it was about to pour in the windows.  We were turning fast now as the bow was pushed around by rudder and wave.  Looking out the starboard window we looked like we were hanging onto a cliff, with just our toes.  The trough was far below us now as it marched on inexorably to the far shore.  We were now parallel to the rollers, the most dangerous point and the wave peak was almost upon us.  The turn was still going strongly, and we put a few more points  on the compass behind us as the peak passed under us.

“Boastwain, centre rudder!”, came the command.

The wheel was quickly spun back to it’s central position, however, the momentum of the turn kept going for a little longer.  As the peak passed under us there was a sickening falling feeling and the ship continued to heel further to port.  As a result of the heel caused by the turn, and now being on the back side of the wave there was nothing to stop the ship from rolling further to port.  The heeling over continued further and further, and unseen objects could be heard shifting and ratting about below us somewhere.  I’m sure we all hoped that the bottle screws holding down the trains were secure and doing their job.  It seemed we just hung there for minutes, rather than seconds but as the trough passed under us the next wave front came to push us back to an even keel.

“Boatswain, 20 degrees right rudder!”

“Yes sir!”

We completed the turn on the front to of this wave, until the captain gave the centre rudder order again.  We now had the waves on our port quarter and it made for a more comfortable ride.  The waves were now further apart as we were going with them and actually surfed down the front of many of them.

Deciding the show was over, I made my way down to the bureau again, dodging a lot more deposits of saw dust on my way.

“Lunch is on if you want to go below Rob”, I announced as I was thrown in through the bureau door on the back of a roll to port.

He looked up at me from his paper work and said,”I might skip it, and get myself something after Tory Channel”.

“Yeah, it is probably a bit wild to try and eat in the saloon, I can grab us something and bring it back if you like, back in a few minutes.  Oh and here is the latest weather and the telegram receipt.  Sparkie told me the Aramo. is holding at Tory Channel”. I said trying to time my leap for the door.

“Isn’t that ‘Gale Force?”, said Rob in surprise.

“Yes”, I came back, “gives you an idea how bad it is out there.  PD is considering the long route to Queen Charlotte Sound. See ya”

Arriving in the pantry I found it deserted, so I turned on the large toaster and flicked on the radio.  Grabbing some bread and a large block of cheese I put the bread in the toaster and proceeded to slice up the cheese.  The song on the radio caught my ear as the whole pantry seemed to heave all around me. It was haunting and seemed to be about this very situation.

Gordon Lightfoots’ “Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald”.  You could hear the waves in the music…….

“Does any one know where the love of God goes
When the waves turn the minutes to hours?”

It felt quite surreal to be listening to that while I grilled the cheese on toast, and couldn’t get it out of my head after that.

“The wind in the wires made a tattle-tale sound
And a wave broke over the railing
And every man knew, as the captain did too,
T’was the witch of November come stealin’.”

Back in the bureau while Rob and I attacked the plate of grilled cheese on toast, there was a knock on the door.  Checking no money was out and the safe was locked, I unsnapped the lock and the second mate walked in.

“Mr Swatteracini”, I greeted him.  Some of us were Italianising our names, which seemed to be the latest fad at the moment.

“Ah, a Pursers’ lunch, nice”, he said grabbing a piece of toast.

“So how is our trusty cargo”, I asked as I could see he had his flashlight and heavy leather gloves under his arm.

“All good, nothing has moved, but sure gave it a good try during some of those wilder rolls.  All dry too which is good news.  Do you know that we only need 1 inch of water on the rail deck to sink us.  The first roll would cause the water to go to one side and roll us over.” he said opening the door to leave again.  ”Thank you gentlemen, enjoy your lunch”, he was halfway through the door and stopped.  Poking his head back in, he said, “I knew there was something other than the smell of grilled cheese that made me pop in.  The Aramoana has turned back for Picton”.

“Wow, Gale Force turned back?” I exclaimed.

“Yes the seas at the entrance to Tory Channel are too high”, came back the second mate, sitting back on the stool, and helping himself to another piece of grilled cheese.

“It must be bad then”, I said. “So does that mean the long way round for us?”

“Well it seems P…,  the Captain is confident that the change in tide by the time we get there will calm the conditions enough for us to enter the channel.” said the second mate around a mouthful of toast.

“So there will be lots of brassed off passengers in Picton when we get there”, I said. “Those from the Aramoana that had to go back, and then the bank up as the Aramoanas’ later sailing won’t happen.  The weather report I got from Sparkie shows no improvement in the next 24 hours”

“Lets wait and see”, said Swateracini making his second attempt to leave.

I looked at the clock and calculated that Aramoana would still be in Tory Channel.  Turning to Rob I said, “I’ll give the Hucko a call to see what their plan of attack is”.

As I reached for the phone it started to ring.  I grabbed it and heard it was someone at head office.  Knowing they were chasing some paperwork which was overdue it was a call I didn’t need right now. I signaled Rob and he knew the drill.  He started making hissing and crackling noises near the mouth piece of the phone.  The poor lady at head office decided our sea-phone connection was not very good in this weather and giving up, said, “I’ll call you in port”, and hung up.

“Whew!”, I said, looking at Rob, “how are those time sheets coming anyway?”

“Nearly done”, he came back.

“Ok, now Hucko.” I said dialing the Aramoanas’ sea phone.  ”Hi Sparkie, can I have the pursers’ bureau please?  Thank you.  ……… Hi Hucko?  No, oh sorry is that you Mr Crombie? is the Hucko around?………… Stacking Zeds in the bunk? … Does he even know you’re headed back to Picton?………..  Ha ha, oh you are a stitch up artist.  Putting him on the shake at Deifenbach, nice touch. …… So what is the plan at Picton, will you off load your passengers and freight?….. Yes, ok, so everyone and everything off loaded and then a complete reboard when sailings commence.  Ok, how is the weather in there?  ……..  Really?  Flat calm?  No way!  …….. Ok, well we will catch up with you in port if you are still there.  I believe PD is making the run for Tory Channel at this stage, something about the tide being different by the time we get there.  Cheers for now”, and I hung up.

“Well you heard that”, as I turned to Rob.

“Yeah”, said Rob.  ”I looked at the booking figures, and as we already knew, every sailing is booked solid.  We are talking around 800 passengers per sailing arriving into Picton expecting to get on ships that so far have been reduced now.  Aramoana was a false start for this sailing and of course will not be coming back to do a second sailing at 22:40 tonight.  We have carried one load across but if we get holed up in Picton when we arrive that is 1,600 passengers that should have left Picton by 14:00 this afternoon, that won’t.  Where will they go?”

“You’re right”, I said, as I tossed the weather map across the desk, “and this is just getting uglier”.

” ello ello ello” I heard behind me in a very cockney policemans’ voice.

Rob and I swung around to face the grille.

“Ah senior Tennepoldi” (it was Italian week, remember), I said.

The moon faced second steward seemed to be bursting at the seams. “I got one for ya, I got one for ya.  Ok, there this bloke at the bottom of the Norf Island like, and ‘ees walking along the beach like, and ‘ee spots this bloke on the beach on the Souf Island.  ’ee says oi, ‘ow I do get get across to the other side like?  The other bloke…. now get this…. the other bloke ‘ee says, you bloody plonker mate you are on the other side. ” very pleased with himself Tennepoldi dissolves into raptures of laughter.

Rob and I looked at each other and said together, “every one a gem”

Sobering up a bit from the raptures the second steward departed our view.

“Right” I said, “I’m calling Picton terminal to see what the situation is”.

“Hi, Purser Aranui here…… yes we’re fine thanks…….. yes pretty rough alright, a few interesting moments.  How is the situation in Picton Terminal now? ………….  Yes Aramoana is headed back to you.  …………  You didn’t know that? ……………..  Yes I just spoke to the Purser of Aramoana and they did not exit Tory Channel……….. Ok, so you are about to receive all your 800 passengers back on top of what you already have. …………….  yes I know you have three hotels and a camp ground.  We will keep you posted. Cheers”

I looked at Rob and shook my head. “This is going to be a long day. Did I say that already?”

The motion of he ship had become much more comfortable with the following sea and as a result more passengers were milling around and feeling they were now seasoned sailors.  Rob was fielding a steady barrage of questions as people started to take more of an interest again in the world around them.

Time passed quite quickly it seemed, and perhaps with a following sea we had actually made up some time that we lost battling our way out of Wellington Harbour.  I went out on the deck to check our progress and could see the coast of the South Island not far ahead.  It was shrouded in mist as the rollers we were riding went on to smash themselves against the jagged rocky cliffs.  For all intents and purposes it looked like we were running straight for an uninterrupted rocky shore.

Entering Tory Channel on a calmer day.

I assumed we must be coming in on an incoming tide which had just turned.  The tiny gap we were to go through had a tidal run that could reach 3.6 metres per second.  Gale Force must have met an out going tide.  The affect of wind over tide can create very rough and choppy conditions, but now that the wind and the tide were going in the same direction, the water surface was much tamer.  Very soon we passed between the heads like an orange pip being squeezed between finger and thumb tip.   We immediately had to execute a hard left turn into Tory Channel itself, and behold we had entered a different world.  Tory Channel was one of the many water ways that make up the Marlborough Sounds, an ancient sunken mountain range.  This area was inundated around 10,000 years ago as sea levels rose after the last ice age.  Now we are left with a net work of water ways, once valleys, with mountainous ranges coming straight out of the water on both sides.

After our rough crossing, it was quite surreal to be suddenly travelling on calm serene water.  The weather that lashed at us a minute earlier was now being pushed up and over the top of us leaving a haven of peace for us to travel through.  Punters were emerging onto the decks now to get some fresh air and take in the scenery.  Our journey through the Sounds would take about an hour before we reached our terminus at Picton, with plenty of beautiful scenery to take in.

Having seen it all many times, I went back in to help Rob with the paperwork.

It seemed that paperwork was far from Robs mind as I saw his bevy of admirers had re-emerged.  Listening to the some of the small talk and grinning to myself, I settled down to complete some of the paperwork and left them to it.

“I’m just going to put the Chief on the shake.” I said, looking at the clock and noting that we had 30 minutes to run which meant we must be abreast Diefenbach Point.

Knocking on the cabin door, I called out, “Diefenbach!”

“Come in,” was the muffled reply.

“Did you manage a kip?”, I asked.

“Not unless you call having to holding on for dear life restful, I actually gave it away and spent some time with the Tracker”, said the chief splashing his face in the hand basin.  ”I’ve heard about the Aramo turning back, and from what I hear of the conditions it’s likely we will not do the scheduled 14:20 sailing.  That leaves the Tracker with a big problem, as he has a crew change which is scheduled to take place on our arrival back in Wellington at 17:40.”

“Yes of course”, I responded.  ”I had assumed we would be going back again, but if we don’t, that changes everything.”

Through a towel, the chief said, “better get Rob to stop the time sheets as I would say there will be all sorts of overtime to factor in by the time this is all finished.  Anyway, see you in the bureau.”

I quickly looked out the port hole and noticed Mabel Island.  That was our signal for making the announcement for passengers to make their way to their cars ready for disembarkation.  I quickly started for the bureau in case Rob had not noted our position, but as soon as I left the Chiefs cabin Robs voice came over the tannoy system.

“Would those passengers with motor vehicles aboard the vessel please make your way…………”.

In the bureau Rob was still on the microphone and the Bean was getting the ships bag together with mail and other documents for Picton terminal.

“Chief’s on his way”, I said grabbing my hat.  ”I’m on the spring”.

“Ok,” said the Bean.  ”Oh, PD called down, he advised that the 14:20 sailing will be delayed and may even be cancelled.  The weather is still very bad and no sign of abating at the moment.  Picton have been advised, but maybe just reinforce that passengers should be told that the 14:20 departure is marginal”.

“For sure”, I said, taking the bag of documents.  ”You might see me back up here in a little while then”.

I threaded my way through the crowd of punters in the vestibule who were queuing up already to leave the ship.  Exiting onto the deck I headed aft and marveled at the calm pleasant day.  How different to only an hour ago, and so hard to imagine the gale was still raging in Cook Strait.  Coming to the end of the deck, I opened a safety gate to hold punters back and went down the stairs to the mooring deck.  My task was to make sure no punters came down onto this deck while the docking procedure was underway.

At this moment the deck began to vibrate wildly as the propellers below us were thrown into reverse thrust.  This served to slow the ship down before executing a one hundred and eighty degree turn so we were stern first to the dock.  The propellers continued their reverse thrust until we were motionless in the water.  Slowly we started to move astern and toward the dock.  I could see Aramoana was in the number one dock and there seemed to be very little activity around her.

Aranui on the turn at Picton.

The second mate on his radio called out, “abreast the long arm”, so that the bridge would know that the stern of the ship was now level with longer of the two wharf arms.

Engines were in idle now as the ship was allowed to coast toward the link span.  One of  the seamen stood at the rail with a leader rope which had a knotted ball at the end.  He swung this like a lasso and let it fly out over the wharf.  On the wharf two wharfies were there ready to receive it and once they had hold started to haul hard on the rope.  This was attached to a metal cable which was fed through a hawser and as the leader rope was pulled down the metal cable called the spring fed out.  When the wharfies had hold of the spring they quickly man handled it over a bollard on the wharf.  On a signal from the second mate who had been watching, a seaman then wound the spring in figures of eight around twin bollards on the deck.  Now by pulling on the loose end and letting it feed through his hands with varying amounts of pressure he was able to use the spring as a brake.  The wound figures of eight over the twin bollards acted as a clutch and multiplied the seamans’ pulling ability many times over.  As well as the reverse thrust from the propellers, the spring was there to stop us careering into the wharf at the end.  Not enough pressure on the spring and it would offer little resistance and be of little use.  Too much pressure and the cable would snap and likely make mince meat of anyone standing on the mooring deck.

He was applying pressure now and smoke could be seen coming off the cable as it passed over the twin bollards.

“Abreast the short arm”, the second mate called into his radio.

The propellers started to beat again and white water filled the small space left between us and the wooden piles at the end of the wharf.  They stopped again and the man on the spring applied pressure to maintain the braking of the ship as it came closer to the end piles.  The second mate was now on the stern calling off the distance to go in feet over his radio.  One last burst on the engines and there was a squealing as the wooden piles came into contact with the wooden buffers that surrounded the sides and stern of the ship.

We had arrived.  More ropes were cast onto the wharf which were secured by the wharfies in order to hold the ship in place.

On a signal from the second mate the shore operator of the link span started to lower it toward the rail deck.  I could hear the stern door on the ship opening at the same time.  No time was lost in the loading and unloading as we normally only had one hour to clear everything and everyone as well as reloading for the return voyage.

As soon as all was secure I went below and out the stern door.  In the terminal it was pandemonium, people everywhere.  Quickly ducking into the office, I could see the local staff had their hands full dealing with angry passengers who had been told that the sailing could be delayed if not outright cancelled.

I saw the Hucko was also there and went over.

“So party time in Picton I see”, I said as I shook his hand.

“Yeah”, he said, “and cars are just as bad.  They have closed off the marshaling yards to stop any more cars coming in until we know what is happening.  Gale Force  is looking to review the situation in an hour as far as the weather bureau report is concerned but we have no way of knowing what is happening at the entrance to Tory Channel.  It looks like you guys would be first out anyway if there is any hope of getting out in the next hour or so so that the ships end up on the right side of the strait tonight.  From what I hear it doesn’t look likely either of us will depart this afternoon.

“Party time in Picton as I said then”, I said as I handed the document bag to a passing staff member.

“Yes well,” said Hucko, “there are about three hundred people an hour pouring into Picton which is already bursting at the seams.  Once we know for sure that there will be no sailings for  this afternoon they are going to ask the radio stations to encourage people to stay in Blenheim at least.  With a couple of pubs and a camp ground which is already full, there is nowhere to go.”

“Ok, well I guess we’ll having to await a decision.  Guess we might be seeing you for a wee bevy later.  cheers”, I said taking the replacement document bag and running the gauntlet of punters back to the ship.

I relayed the news to the others when I got back to the bureau.

Aranui in Picton.

“Who’s on the late drive tonight assuming there is one?”, asked the Chief.

“I am”, said Rob.

“Ok, then you might as well go put your head down for a few hours”, said the Chief.

As there was nothing much to do but wait, we got as much of the paperwork up to date as we could.

“Good afternoon gentlemen”

“Good afternoon Mr Swatteracini, you look to be at a loose end this afternoon”, came back the Chief.

“Yes, the captain has gone across to Aramoana to have a conflab with Gale Force.  Together they will reach a decision no doubt” said the second mate.

“What do YOU think”, asked the chief.

“Well, in spite of his reputation, I believe Gale Force is erring on the side of caution. you remember that last big gale he was in on the Aramoana?” said the second mate.

“Last August?”, asked the Chief.

“Yes, that’s it.  Aramoana came out of Tory Channel and the seas were so big that at first they made no forward headway.  Just pounded into the waves for hours, could neither turn left nor right as they would have rolled over.  Having to continue straight ahead they battled on and ended up off Cape Campbell, miles out of their way.  Eventually they were able to safely turn and make a run for Wellington Harbour.”

“Yes, I remember that”, I said.

“What you probably don’t know”, said the second mate, scratching his beard, “is that later when they surveyed the ship, it was found that the superstructure had been pushed back one inch due to the pounding of the heavy seas.”

“Wow,” I said, “any wonder Gale Force is being cautious now.”

“Better go see what the situation is now”, said the second mate collecting his heavy gloves and torch off the counter.  ”As soon as I get news I’ll let you know” he said over his shoulder as he stepped out onto the deck.

“Ok, I’m going across to see the Hucko”, said the Chief.

The afternoon passed quietly.  The the frantic activity of cleaning the ship after the last crossing had been completed and the stewards had long since retired to their quarters.  With the radio going quietly in the back ground I battled through the paperwork in what felt like a ghost ship.

A little after 16:00 the bureau phone went, it was the bridge.  ”Mr Swatteracini, what news have you got?”

“Well, currently they are hoping to get the Aramoana away for the 18:40 sailing and hold us here for our 22:40 sailing so we are back in sequence with schedules.  Gale force is going to do a final review at 17:00,” said the second mate.

“Ok, that gives us quite a few more hours in port then,” I said.  ” I suppose there is still no question of leaving two rakes of rail behind to add more vehicles to the load?”.

“You’re not wrong there”, he said, “no chance.  Personally I don’t think any one is going anywhere tonight.  The cement ship John Wilson was to go to Tarakohe this afternoon and the conditions at Wellington heads led them to cancel the sailing.  There is no sign of improvement.”

Visualising all the punters arriving Picton every hour, I asked, “so when will PD make a decision for us?”

“Not until 21:00, obviously there is great pressure to sail, but safety is safety.  If we don’t sail, we are floating the idea of letting punters on board overnight to try and ease congestion in Picton.  We’ll talk about that plan closer to the time.”

“Ok”, I said, “one step at a time I guess.  Looks like we may have a bevy ashore tonight, the place will be jumping”.

“I think we’ll have deserved it”, laughed the second mate, and hung up.

Just then Rob let himself back in the bureau.  I filled him in on the events so far.

At 17:00 Gale Force announced the decision not to sail.  This meant the Aramoana was now tied up for the night and she would recommence her scheduled services with the 10:00 tomorrow.

Soon after the Chief arrived back on board.

“Well,” he said, “looks like the Aramo boys have got the night off.  They are allowing six hundred passengers on board so they will at least have some shelter for the night.  It means some stewards will have to remain on duty just to keep an eye on them.  Not happy campers I can tell you.”

“What about Hucko and the guys?”, asked Rob.

“The good news for them is they have the night off and are already heading up to the pub as we speak”, said the chief.

“Gees”, said Rob, “that should be us”

“Well, in a few hours maybe it will be”, I offered.

The Chief looked at the clock, “PD said he would be making a decision within the hour, so a little sooner than we thought.  The tide at Tory Channel heads will be at it’s worst as we are expected to exit, so no improvement in the weather in then next hour means a no go.  Mind you by the time we catch up with others I’m sure they’ll be Brahms anyway.”

Rob looked at me blankly.

“Brahms, you know, Brahms and Liszt……….. p.ssed.  Oh never mind”, I said with mock exsaperation.

An hour later the decision was made not to sail.  Good news for some, and bad news for most.  Under the watchful eyes of Rob and myself we allowed six hundred passengers to board the vessel and find little places to try and bed down for the night.  Once all was secure we dashed to our cabins and changed into our shore going clothes.  The Chief and the Bean had already closed up shop and started up to the town.

It was just getting on dusk as we left the ship for the walk through the foreshore park. Picton is a sleepy little town of around 5,000 population, but in the summer months it swells to several times that number as it is the gateway to the water playgounds of the Marlborough Sounds.  Now with ferry travellers arriving into town and not being able to depart, the place was literally bursting at the seams.  Walking through the park we were constantly stepping around people who had laid claim to this or that piece of ground and had unrolled sleeping bags to make it official.

“Where do you reckon?”,  ask Rob.

“Reckon the Federal is as good a place to start as any”, I said trying to navigate a path through the throng.

We did catch up with our gang at the Federal, and found a corner that wasn’t too crushed.  In spite of the circumstances there was very festive feeling in the air and everyone was relaxing down to enjoy the moment.  The three hotels or pubs in Picton were very much the old style, with a public bar and a lounge bar.  Upstairs they probably had half a dozen hotel rooms.  They weren’t built to cater for the thousands of people milling around looking for a drink and a good time, so people were spilling out the doors into the streets around.  In those days New Zealand had a very strict 10:00 closing law for pubs.  The only exception being that guests staying in the hotel rooms were allowed to drink after hours in the house bar.  At around 21:45 I said to the Bean, “do you think we should grab a bottle of James to take back to the ship when they kick us out.”

“He leaned in and said, “I think they have got it covered, the cops don’t want any trouble”, he said giving a subtle nod toward  the other side of the room.

I looked over and there was the local constable talking to the publican who was showing him a page from the guest register.

“No way!”, I said turning back to the Bean.

“Yeah, way” he said.  ”On my last round I had to write our name in the register, so you my friend are staying with I don’t know how many others in room 3.”

“You’ve got to love small towns”, I said, looking around.  On far side of the room a band had set up and the young Maori guy who was singing was very good indeed.

After a few more drinks at this and the other pubs, and grabbing a carafe of Corbans, Veluto Roso, we headed back to the ship.

Some people were doing their best to get some sleep where ever they could find a space, whilst many others were sitting around talking.  There was generally a festive mood aboard as people made the best out of bad situation.  Going below we found there were parties going on in many cabins, members of the public as well as ships personnel.  I joined one in the second stewards cabin where we were all squeezed in, and cracked the carafe of Veluto Roso.  Laughter and wine flowed, until out of the blue the second steward said,

“Oh my, it’s three oclock, and look at the time”.

We of course in our various states dissolved into laughter.  The room started to empty as we went off to our various bunks to try and take advantage of what was left of the night.

The following day brought little relief.  The weather in Picton remained calm and pleasant, while out in Cook Strait the storm still raged.  Passengers were allowed to remain on board throughout the day to try and alleviate the congestion in Picton.

At 16:00 Gale Force announced that the Aramoana would be taking up the 18:40 sailing as conditions had improved enough.  We on the Aranui would therefore take up our normal 22:40 sailing which would put the ships back in the correct positions for tomorrow.

At around 21:00 we ensured all the passengers who had been allowed to stay on board had left the ship and loading commenced at 21:40.  An on time departure at 22:40 and we were cruising once again sedately through the Marlborough Sounds.  I was scheduled to do the late drive, as we called the last sailing of the day.  By 23:00 the others had all disappeared to their cabins to catch up on some much needed sleep.  Big Julie next door was pulling down the shutter on the refreshment shop after getting rid of the last punters getting supplies for their late night sailing.  The number of people milling around in the vestibule became less as they found places to settle down for the next few hours.

I brought my paperwork up onto the main counter so I could see out, rather than have my back to the grille and have to get up if someone made an inquiry.

Around 23:10 I felt the ship lean to port as we made the turn toward Tory Channel, followed a few minutes later by a lean to starboard as we rounded Diefenbach Point and into Tory Channel proper.  A group of people were sitting on the bench seat on the opposite wall to the bureau happily talking among themselves.

Having completed the manifest work I locked the bureau and quickly took the documentation up to the bridge.  Out on deck all was serine as we glided through the still inland waters.  The mountains rose out of the water and seemed like ghosts in the dark looming over the ship.  There were a few stars but obviously there was still cloud about, and what there was seemed to be moving quite smartly across the sky.  It would be another long trip.

Back in the bureau I settled in, put some nice music on my cassette player and got down to my paper work.  The group on the seat opposite me were still chatting away happily.  One of the young ladies was quite attractive I noted idly to myself.

Back to work.

Looking at the clock I noted it was 23:40, so any minute now we would turn through the channel.

Sure enough within a few minutes I felt the ship lean to port making its right hand turn out through the narrow channel to the open sea.  It was interesting to watch the expressions on the group of people on the seat opposite.  Most were oblivious to our location and continued to chat away. A few of the more seasoned travellers who realised we were leaving sheltered waters looked more wary.  The attractive one was obviously one of the seasoned ones and while not looking worried, she did seem to be waiting to see how bad it was going to be.  She caught me looking and gave me a smile, probably showing a brave face I thought to myself.

At first all seemed calm as we completed the turn.  The group became a little more animated again as they decided that maybe they had got away with not having to endure a rough crossing.

All of a sudden it was as if the front of the ship had fallen off the edge of a cliff.  We seemed to be careering down a roller coaster rail, propellers racing as they came out of the water, only to be slapped by the next wave as it came over the bow and pounded into the superstructure.  Rising quickly now to cross over the peak of that wave before repeating the whole process over and over again.  The group opposite had mostly gone completely quiet now as they fought their own internal battles with fear and/or this evenings’ dinner.

I persevered with the paperwork for a while but with the wild movement of the ship it was hard to keep items that started to take on lifelike tendencies, in one place.  Looking up I saw that the attractive lady was watching my efforts with some amusement.  I smiled back at her as I decided to give up, and stow everything away.  Securing all the drawers with their lock tabs so nothing would fly open, I grabbed this evenings newspaper and headed back to sit at the counter.  The attractive lady was standing at the counter holding onto the grille so as not to be thrown across the vestibule with every new dip and dive of the ship.  It seemed her companions had lost their conversational skills as they dealt with the conditions.  Something that bothered this young lady not at all it seemed.

She was much more interesting than my newspaper so that stayed neglected as we chatted our way across the strait.  Noticing a change in the motion I assumed us to be off Sinclair Head.  The clock showed we were some twenty minutes behind schedule due to us  battling against the weather.  As we turned into the heads of Wellington Harbour the motion changed yet again as the rollers were now coming from behind us, and we were literally surfing.  As the rollers passed under the ship from behind there were still times when the propellers surged as they came clear of the water.  This also meant the rudders were not as deep as they should be to have enough purchase to keep the ship in line.

All of a sudden as another large wave rose up under the stern the propellers raced again and the ship started to turn to port with a resultant lean to starboard.  The turn became very violent as the bow dug into the sea and the raised stern with little rudder effect was pushed to starboard.  The ship continued to roll to starboard, as she was forced broadside to the wave.  It seemed like the roll would never end as it started to go way past any normal limits.  People screamed and many were thrown off the seat opposite the bureau. Through my mind flashed thoughts of the Inter-island ferry Wahine which was lost in Arpil 1967 on the reef that must surely be dead ahead of us now.  My new friend was hanging onto the grille for dear life and I grabbed her hands to hold them on the bars.  In the dark is it impossible to say how far we healed over, but it felt like we must have been nearly over on our side, which I’m sure is very far from the truth.  As the wave passed under us, it actually served to support the starboard side and started to roll us back to an even keel.  Immediately the ship started to turn back to starboard.  We must have been very close to reef now as the harbour entrance is quite narrow.

The next wave caught us back in our correct heading and we commenced the surfing motion again.  It slowly diminished as we got deeper into the harbour and very soon we were once again in smooth water.  I excused myself from my chat buddy and started to complete pre-arrival paperwork.  She rejoined her friends who were now coming back to the land of the living.

I grabbed the bag of paperwork for the terminal, locked the bureau, smiled at the people on the seat opposite and headed back to the mooring deck.  It was still a bit chilly outside for summer but better than when we left almost two days ago.

At 03:00 I finally crawled into my bunk to grab a few hours before we started again.  That was an interesting weekend to say the least.

Knock knock knock, “Shake time!”, called Rob through the door of the cabin.

I’m sure I had just closed my eyes.  ”Ok, ok I’m awake I called”

“Got something for ya”, he called back.

“Ok, come in already”, I said irritably, not feeling in the least bit like playing games.

The door opened and Rob came in brandishing a bit of paper,  a grin on his face.

“Thanks”, I said, and ushered him back out the door as I prepared to jump in the shower.

I looked at the paper and picked it up.  It was a telegram form of which we send and receive many on behalf of passengers.  It was received at around 07:00 this moring while I was still asleep.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR COMPANY ON THE TRIP CALL ME 894-546 – J

I smiled.  Today was going to be a good day.

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Leap of Faith

“The wind looks right”, I heard one of them say.

My friend and I were sitting in the long grass atop a hill watching a group of parapenters as they set up their parachutes ready to fly off the cliff top.  My friend knew one of them which is why we were here.

A few of the group were sitting near the cliff edge with handheld wind speed gauges watching the rise and fall of the breeze.  There is a quite small window of opportunity as far as wind conditions are concerned.  If the breeze is not strong enough, then the chute will not fill before you leave the ground causing parapenter and chute to take on the aerodynamic properties of a breeze block.  If the wind is too strong it would push the parapenter up and over the hill to be dumped downwind in the next down draft.  The breeze block aerodynamic properties would once again apply to the latter half of this journey.

The hilltop didn’t seem too high from this vantage point, perhaps two to three hundred feet.  It was a very pleasant outlook down to a narrow coastal strip fringed by a black rocky shore.  Across the wide bay with a reef in the middle was Plimmerton.

One of the younger guys decided it was good enough to give it a try, so with the aid of another he started strapping himself into the harness.  The parachute, having been meticulously checked was now laid out on the grass behind him.   The chute itself was shaped like a wing and would open above the person flying it like a crescent.  It was a double layer of fabric sewn into tubes running front to back. These tubes were open front and back and once in flight, the air would fill these and cause the chute to take on the shape of a wing.  It had to be laid out in a very particular way so that when he started to run, the leading edge would lift and start to fill with air.

Having checked the chute and harness, his helpers stood clear.  Another was still at the cliff edge with the wind speed indicator.  When he determined the wind to be favourable he called out.  With his hands held high and slightly behind him holding the guy ropes for either side as well as the control ropes, our friend started forward.  With his first forward movement, the front of the chute started to lift off the ground.  As his speed increased it quickly filled and floated up to a position above him.  Closing the edge of the cliff he did a quick look up to see the chute was formed properly, as well as those around calling out, “looks good!”.  He was running now and approaching the edge of the cliff.  Because the wind was coming straight onto the cliff, it was being pushed up and over this obstacle.  The resultant updraught at the cliff face lifted our friends’ chute and up he went like an elevator.  This was a critical moment.  The depth of the updraft was not that great so it was a case of keep the chute from surging forward too quickly and passing into the normal air beyond and start to descend to the flat area below the cliff.  This was not dangerous so much as it was the object was to try to stay aloft as long as possible much like the seagulls cruising the cliff top updraughts.  If he stayed too slow he risked getting behind the updraft where the air starts to tumble and fall again behind the hill.  This could result in a gross height excursion of the type bones are not made for.

Our friend did well, maintaining his position in the updraft for a short time, he then started to descend down to the base of the cliff.

My friend turned to me and said, “do you want to try it?”.

“What? Me?!?”.

“Yes, why not?  I’ve been before.”

Gee, I thought, I just came to watch and now I’m making this decision.

“Ok, why not, you’re a long time dead eh.”

We scrambled down the face of the hill and helped gather up the chute to carry it back up the hill.

Harnessing up for my first flight.

Strapping the harness on was quite an affair, and I let the experts take care of it, checking buckles, guy ropes etc.  I had some light aircraft flying experience, so the principles of flight were no mystery to me at least.   Once the harness was on, they laid the chute out behind me as I had seen done on the previous flight.  I then had the controls explained to me.  I had a cord in each hand that when pulled down would pull down the rear edge of the chute on that side .  When pulled together they acted as flaps and served to slow the chute down and giving it extra lift temporarily.  When used separately they allowed you to turn left or right.  There were also another pair of ropes I could reach for if required that when pulled would bunch up part of the chute reducing the lift causing it to move down and forward faster.  This is handy if you found yourself being pushed over the hill and required faster forward movement to get back in front of it.

So, here I was, harnessed up and preparing to run to the edge of a cliff.  The brain was crying out, “are you nuts?!?!”  I sort of had to agree, not exactly what the survival mechanism was designed to accept.  But then I knew the exhilaration of flight waited at the other end.  Chatting with those around me I guess I was stalling for time as I struggled within on the wisdom of doing what I was about to do.  Everyone then moved away from me having ascertained that the chute was good, and guy ropes were clear and tangle free.

The moment was now, I couldn’t stall much longer.  The guy on the cliff edge with the wind meter called out that it was good.  Ok, here goes.  With my arms above my head holding the guy ropes and the control ropes I started forward.  after a couple of steps I felt the chute fill behind me and start to rise, slowing my pace.  A few more steps and I quickly looked up to see the crescent of fabric above me nicely shaped as a wing.  Heart is racing. Brain is screaming, “What are you doing!?!?”  The cliff edge was fast approaching.  I felt the chute pulling up a bit now, making me lighter on my feet.  A few feet back from he cliff edge my feet suddenly left the ground, I felt myself go up.  Oh wow!  I’m flying!

I'm flying! Wow!

Adrenaline makes time go more slowly, but I needed it to go slower still.  I was through the updraft and descending before I had got accustomed to being up here.  I hadn’t slowed myself to staying in the updraught but of course that would come with practise no doubt.  It was a great feeling being free of the ground, the sea in front of me.  I descended quite quickly toward the flat grassy area, and using the controls I pulled down  just before I contacted the ground to slow my descent and forward moment.  I still managed to end up on my backside.  Wow!  What a rush! That was awesome!

My friend came down the cliff along with the others.  ”How was that?” he called out.

“Really great!”, I came back.

“Well, we’re going to go to Paekak. Hill tomorrow.  Interested?”

“For sure”, I said, while thinking, oh dear that is about 1,000 feet high.

Paekak Hill

Looking North West from Paekakariki Hill.

The next day found us atop Paekakariki Hill.  This stretch of the coast line is evidence of the seas inexorable progress in battering the land into submission.  All along this coast these thousand foot hills ended in sheer drops to the sea below.  The main highway north snaked along the narrow strip between land and sea far below, slightly above that cut into the hillside the railway did the same thing.  Out ahead of us Kapiti Island lay just off the coast, and to the left of that much further away were the Marlborough Sounds.  A great place to come and take in the world, but we were here for another reason.

The guys were down near the edge of the hill with their wind meters and they seemed pretty happy.  The location was quite ideal, a wide grassy area sloped down toward the edge of the hill, just above the old Paekakriki Hill Road.  Perfect for a take off run with a bit of a breeze funneling up the slope.  One of the group was setting up his chute on the ground at the top of the slope, and was being fitted into his harness.  I was filled with trepidation as I imagined myself standing there getting ready to go.  He looked so small against the distant sea and coast below.  Ready now.  The wind watch guys indicated it was good.  Off he went. The first few steps taken and the chute was up.  Look up to see all was well, and calls from others agreeing that all looked good.  His feet left the ground and he was away.  A whoop of joy and he rose up to join the seagulls around us.  You could hear the deep humming sound of the chute fabric fluttering, as he turned to the left and then came back by us on a return leg.  Soon he began his descent toward the coast and eventually landed on the beach near The Fishermans Table restaurant.  His friends had already left by car down the snaking Paekakariki Hill Road to retrieve him and the chute.

Very soon it seemed they were back.  The inner struggle was still going on within me.  How could I force myself to run off the edge of a cliff?  How could I miss out on this opportunity, it looked so much of a blast.  Watching them bring the gear up from the car, I knew I would regret it if I left here without going through with it.

“So”, said my friend, “are you up for it?”

“You bet!”, I said wishing my enthusiasm to drown out my fears.

Soon I was standing at the top of the launch strip.  Ahead of me the sea stretched out.  I was not able to see down to where it joined the land due to the slope of the hill.  Behind me a felt gentle tugs on the harness as the chute was carefully laid out behind me.  I knew I could do this, or so I kept trying to convince myself.  I was actually contemplating running down this slope and casting myself into the void, a far larger void than yesterday.  Ok, harness had been checked, and rechecked.  I couldn’t drag that out any longer.  Right, everyone is walking away from me now to clear the runway space.  This kind of means it is down to me now.  Gees, how did I get here?  How do I get myself into these things?  Deep breath, didn’t it look so easy when the guy did it before?  Sure, a walk in the park.

The guys at the edge of the hill waved a signal indicating the wind was good.

Ok, now or never.  I took the first few steps and felt the pressure on my hands and through the harness as the chute filled with the first bit of air and started to rise.  The run was down the slope so forward motion was easier.  A lot more back pressure now. I sneaked a look upwards to see the chute was floating and shaped correctly.  Those around me called out, “looks good to go.”

Woosh!  I was off my feet and in the air.  I wiggled my way into the seat which was part of the harness, and looked down.  Oh wow!  Between my feet I could see miniature cars on the main highway below me.  This was so weird, I was like a bird as I had no flying machine around or below me.  Ok, time to concentrate, I didn’t want to go too far out from the hill and lose the updraft, so I made turn to the north to try to flank the hill.  I sailed past a hairpin bend in the windy Paekakariki Hill Road where people had stopped to watch us.  It felt so weird to be out from there where many people were too scared to look out of their car windows.

Paekak coast

Looking down at the trains and traffic.

I was descending so I guess my lack of experience was evident, and I had missed the opportunity to ride the ridge as the seagulls did.  I was getting quite accustomed to my new little world.  The thrumming of the chute above me, wind rushing by and an uninterrupted view previously only enjoyed by birds.

Now a turn to the left as I curved back and tracked across the hill face to the south.  There was still some manner of updraft which was at least slowing my descent if not actually lifting me back up.

I now needed to try to gauge how much time I had left to get myself over the railway line and road making sure I was over the coast for my landing.  As the whole flight was based on a semi controlled descent, the lower one got the less options there were for making progress across the ground.  Most of this coast was jagged rocks until a beach started slightly to the north of our launch point.  This was my target and as I was now headed south I felt it was time to make for my touch down point rather than get too low and have to avail myself of the back seat of someones convertible.

Fishermans Table Restaurant located at bottom left of the picture.

I crossed the road and railway, the cars were closer now and much more part of my immediate world than before.  The rocks below me were quite well covered as the tide was high.  Out over the water I went, and the descent became more rapid.  I had lost any updraught related to the hill, and now I was over the cooler water there was no thermal activity either.  Making a turn to the right I headed back toward the beach.  I noticed then that the high tide had left me precious little beach to aim for.  The waves below me were very close now, and I felt like my feet were going to get wet at any second.  Literally skimming over the breakers now.  This is going to be close.

Suddenly sand was below me.  I pulled a hard turn to the left to face up the beach and into the wind, landed well on my feet and pulled the controls to make the chute collapse to one side.  I was down!  That was such a buzz.  I was so wired.  My friend came running down the dune and gave me a high-five.  Wow!

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Flight to Mungo Part II

Back to Flight to Mungo Part I

Walking across to Mungo Lodge we were assigned our rooms where we could dump our gear.   The lodge was a low set building with a wooden balcony running right around it.  The rooms all opened out onto a part of this balcony.  We didn’t linger in the rooms as there was to be a tour laid on to look at the local wonders of Mungo National Park.  At the reception area we were assigned spaces on a couple of mini buses and climbed aboard.  Our first stop was close by at the Mungo Woolshed.  This building was constructed in around 1869 from local cypress pine by Chinese and European settlers.  The drop log construction is very solid and obviously has stood the rigours of this harsh environment.  Walking around inside, the wind gently whistled through the rustic rafters which must have seen so much activity in their heyday.  Looking out through gaps in the walls you saw into the endlessness as if this were some beacon on an endless plain of scrub.  I must admit I thought a couple of times that if I were a snake I should like to hang out in such a place, so my eyes were everywhere.   Having only moved to Australia less than a year ago from New Zealand, I had yet to re-establish my ability to live with the knowledge of snakes being around that I had established in my Malaysia days.

Soon we boarded our mini buses again and now set off across the dried lake bed to the eastern shore where the white lunette stretched before us.  The sheep herders who came to this area in the 1860s were mainly Chinese and they named the 25 kilometre lunette the Walls of China.

Driving through this 10 kilometre wide bowl in the landscape it was hard to imagine that we would have been under 15 metres of water in the days when this lake was filled. That of course was over 16,000 years ago.  Had there been a bridge, all the water had passed under it long ago.  The Walls of China now stretched out left and right for as far as we could see.  It was quite surreal to move from a scrubby desert landscape into one of dunes and sandy landscape.  There were sandy peaks where the wind had pushed sand together form those razor back hills as you see in desert set movies.  There were also large flat areas with curious sharp edged mounds where the sand had been eroded away but some sturdier outcrops still held firm against the elements.

The reason the lunettes were here is due to the prevailing westerly winds.  As the lake dried out all those thousands of years ago, the sandy bottom as it became exposed dried and was then pushed by the wind to the eastern shore.  Even today the lunette is on a slow march to the east as the sand keeps getting blown by that same wind.

Once we had walked around and oohed and aahed at the scenery, we were brought back together in our group.  Our guide then started to explain more about the dry lake, the lunette and their history.  Because of the shifting nature of the lunette, new archeological finds were constantly coming to light.  This was the area where Mungo Man had been discovered.  The skeletal remains of Mungo Man were found in a grave in what is believed to have been a ritual burying.  The bones have been carbon dated to be 62,000 years old.  The bone structure is quite light as opposed to much younger skeletons found in Australia where brows are heavy.  Also found here were the remains of Mungo Woman dated at 26,000 year old.  Needless to say they probably didn’t know each other. Mungo woman is the oldest example of ritual cremation anywhere, and also demonstrated the value of women in that society.

Our guide then took us to a low depression in the flatter part of the dunes and pointed out a darker gravelly part.  This was one of the many cooking fire sites that keep getting exposed as the sand moves.  This site enabled archeologists to learn much about the life of the people who made this lake system their home.  We could almost picture the lake system filled with water and teaming with fish.  Life must have been good.  The cooking fire site shows us that the Mungo people must have used nets to fish, as the ear bones of fish in the fires are never less than a certain size.  This to archeologists suggests that fish below a certain size were able to fit through the holes in the nets and escape.  The cooking of the fish was done by covering the fish in wet clay then placing the whole on the fire.  The clay then hardened by the fire while the fish within baked.  When all was ready the clay was shattered, each fragment breaking away would also take the fish scale with it leaving a scaled baked fish behind.  The guide picked some such pieces from the fire site and passed them round.  You could indeed see scales stuck to the clay fragments.  It made the whole idea come to life to actually hold and see the results of some persons labour tens of thousands of years ago. How different a place this must have been.  A place of plenty rather than a desert.

Looking out from one of the higher vantage points, the horizon stretched out endlessly in every direction.  How different it must have once been, With the lake system filled, perhaps it would have been covered with  larger trees at some point, breaking up the view.  In this endless landscape you also got the feeling for the endlessness of time. How drastically things can change over tens of thousands of lifetimes.  How many generations of people lived with the drying out process of the lakes and where did they end up going.  How long did it take?  Makes you think about so many things.

The day was drawing to a close so back on the buses and back to the lodge.

That night there was dinner and drinks in the dining room, and just sitting on the balconys chatting and enjoying the outback night. It was surprisingly cold as the westerly breeze brought cold air off the Southern Ocean, but pleasant enough.

The next day was clear and cool.  It always was so incongruous to me when I learned how deserts can be so cold.  In such a sunburned looking environment it just doesn’t seem right.  There was a bustle of activity as people were clearing out of their rooms and making ready for our departing flight home.  A group of us had decided we would fly back via the town of Griffith in the Riverina district and have lunch there.

Flight plans done, weather received and baggage stowed.  Soon the flight line was a hive of activity as pilots went through pre-flight checks, and aero-engines began to start up.  I had removed the tie down lines and pegs and repacked them with our baggage in the rear compartment.  Everyone seated and belted up, and I was ready to start up.  Once the engine  was started I had to be ready to move immediately as standing still could cause small stones to hit the propellor or underside of the wings and fuselage.  Once on the move I went through the pre-take off engine checks keeping light toe pressure on the brakes so we didn’t go hurtling off down the taxiway.  We kept well back from the aircraft ahead of us on the taxiway.  It was quite busy as a steady stream of light aircraft took off along the dirt strip.  Once we left, the desert would return to it’s quiet existence, but for now it was full on activity and noise.

Our turn on the runway.  I called up local traffic to advise I was lining up for a departure to the east.   Without stopping I lined up and immediately eased the throttles up to full power.  Everything remaining in the green, good to keep going.  A longer than usual take off roll due to the roughness of the runway surface and off we lifted again.  The lodge passed under the right wing with the dry lake on the right as well and lunette beyond.  Continuing the climb straight ahead to 1,500 feet above ground level to avoid those who might be joining the circuit to land at the airfield, I commenced the turn.  Heading slightly south of east we flew out across the dry lake and the lunette continuing the climb to cruise altitude.

Looking out I could get a real feel for the size of the lunette as it stretched north along an ancient long forgotten shoreline.  For a short time I felt I had been able to step back in time and get a glimpse of a world long long gone.  How in our short lives we only catch a glimpse of what this world of ours is like as it is on its way from one state of being to another, and then to another.  Glad I was taken on that journey.

Up ahead we reverted back to the featureless scrubby pancake flat country again.  Back to our clock and compass flying.  I set my compass heading and marked down the times.

Eventually the landscape started to change.  Up ahead incongruously the land became very green and fertile looking.  Neat squares of cultivated land were bordered by canals and ditches carrying water.  This was the start of the MIA (Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area), an area mainly within the Riverina District of New South Wales.  The system is based on waters of the Murrumbidgee River and the Murray River which is controlled via canals and holding ponds to allow many crops to be grown in this otherwise arid land, from rice to grapes.

Now nearing Griffith I commenced the pre-landing checks and made my radio call to any local traffic.  I could hear others in our group making their calls too.

Soon we were back on the ground at a sealed airfield.  Getting the refueling out of the way and then tying down the aircraft, we then called a cab and headed into town.  We went to the local RSL (Returned Servicemans League) where we pulled a few tables together and had a great lunch.

We didn’t linger too long over lunch as being winter it was going to get dark earlier and we had to be on the ground at Bankstown before dark.

Back to the aircraft, perform the checks and off we went again.  The last sector would take us back over the Blue Mountains and into the Sydney basin.  Crossing back over the Blue Mountains, some of the large sand stone escarpments were catching the late afternoon sun and were glowing reds and yellows, always a great sight.

It was twilight as we descended into Bankstown, the runway lights were coming on so it was quite novel for me as I had no experience outside of daylight.

It was an amazing weekend.  The flying which was my longest cross country was a great experience.  The experience of getting close and personal with a truly ancient site and the feeling that gave of the endlessness of time.

A weekend I would not forget.

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Flight to Mungo (Part 1)

Peter in Warrior IIThe dawn looked promising, a few stars still stood their ground against the approaching sunlight, and a slight breeze freshened the winter morning.  Having received the latest weather report from Decktalk Derek, as we liked to refer to the metallic automated voice recording from the weather bureau, I was driving to Bankstown Airport.

Pulling up to the car park at Clamback and Hennessy my flying school, I could hear some light aircraft engines already starting, ready for another day of flight training.

As I walked to the office, passing the control tower, I felt a level of excitement building up.  This was to be my first long cross country flight.  The club was having a fly-in to Mungo Lodge, located in Mungo National Park in the extreme south west of New South Wales, Australia.  We would fly out this morning and then return tomorrow afternoon.  I would be taking my flying instructor and his lady friend in my aircraft, and there would be several other club members travelling in aircraft leaving at staggered times.

The office was a hive of activity as pilots filed flight plans and left SAR time notes.  SAR(Search and Rescue) time notes consisted of a destination and a time.  When the pilot reached the destination he/she would be required to call up and cancel the SAR watch.  If this wasn’t done, a rather expensive search and rescue could be mounted to find the presumed missing aeroplane. I also had to make calculations with regard to the weights of the aircraft with three passengers, bags and full load of fuel.  We would be travelling close to the maximum all up weight for the aircraft and could  expect a longer than normal take off run.  Bankstown fortunately has plenty of runway available, and is at sea level.

Having completed the paperwork, I wandered out to the Piper Warrior II I had been assigned. I was carrying my case with maps and other flight navigation material, an overnight bag and my tie down kit.  The tie down kit consisted of a hammer, three sturdy pegs each with a length of rope.  This would be required at the the other end where I would have to tie down the aircraft overnight in case there was a strong wind.

Having stowed my kit in the rear compartment, I proceeded to do the aircraft walk around.  This was a systematic check of the aircraft to ensure that it was undamaged and airworthy.  Switching the power switch half on, I grabbed the Jabiru stick(a fuel tank dipping stick), and pulled the flap lever stick up.  I then started with the right wing, on which I checked the hinges and freedom of movement of flaps and ailerons, then the aluminium skin for damage or wrinkling which might suggest a bend in the airframe.  Next was the right hand side of the of the fuselage, checking the cargo hatch, and the static air intake which if blocked would cause the air driven instruments such as airspeed indicator and altimeter to read incorrectly.  The empenage or tail plane was next, checking for freedom of movement and robustness.  The process was repeated on the left side of the aircraft.  At each of the wings, the fuel tank was was opened and the graduated Jabiru stick dipped in to ensure the amount of fuel was correct.  Under each wing was a fuel release valve and this enabled a small sample to be taken into a bottle which could then be checked for water which doesn’t tend to burn too well.  On the front of the left wing is a little metal tab on the leading edge.  If the aircraft should near a wing stall, the interrupted airflow over the leading edge of the wing would cause the tab to be pushed up.  This in turn would set an alarm in the cockpit alerting the pilot that the aircraft was about to lose lift, and that when this alarm sounds he would need to act to increase the aircrafts airspeed by either pushing down the nose or apply more throttle or both.  This was the reason I turned the power switch half on before.  Hearing the alarm when I touched the tab satisfied me that it was working.   The tyres were then checked for damage as was the oil level in the engine.

Everything looked good.  The sun was up now and activity around Bankstown airport was in full swing.  Early morning was a favourite time for flight training as the air was still smooth and calm.  It also factored into my calculations as the cooler denser morning air would offer more lift and traction for the propeller so higher performance could be expected.

My passengers arrived and we re-stowed the baggage in the rear locker strapping it down in place.   Whilst seats were being adjusted and harnesses latched, I worked my way through the pre-start check list.  This involved checking the maintenance release, which is the signed off form from the aero-mechanical engineer to show the aircraft did not have any unresolved faults and that there were enough hours left on the engine before any required overhaul.  Having received the current air pressure (QNH) and temperature via the recorded ATIS (Air Traffic information Service) broadcast from the airfield tower.  This is a repeating recording that loops over and over and is re-recorded every time there is a change in the weather.  At the beginning of the day they start with information Alpha (A) and each change progresses to the next letter in the alphabet.  When we finally get to the runway we will  need to indicate that we are ready to go and have received information X.  Switching the radios back off, I input the current air pressure into the altimeter so that it showed the altitude correctly.  I checked this to be correct at 29 feet above sea level.  All instruments were checked in readiness for engine start up.

Doing a thorough check around the aircraft for loose objects and people I called “clear prop” through the little window to my left and turned the ignition.  A few grinding turns and then it caught, turning the propeller in front of us into a translucent disc.  The aircraft lurched forward on it’s oleo suspension as I firmly applied the toe brakes on the foot peddles.  I grinned to myself as I remember the old joke; “Hey do you know that the only reason they have a propeller on a plane is to keep the pilot cool? Yeah, you should see him sweat when it stops!”
Settling the engine to the recommended 1,000 RPM I scanned the instruments to make sure that everything was in the green, and flight instruments were coming to life.  I set the gyroscopic compass to match the direction indicated on the ball in alcohol compass, and proceeded to switch on the the radios and GPS.  My flight plans and check list were on a clip board on my lap as was the map with our proposed track clearly marked.  There was also a notebook with land marks and times marked in so that I would know what to look for and what time I should be expecting to see it.  Calling up the tower, I indicated that we were ready to taxi to the active runway with three persons on board for Mungo. The tower indicated the runway in use. Doing another check outside for loose objects, humans and any other items not conducive to a smooth taxi, I slowly released pressure on the toe brakes allowing the aircraft to start moving forward. As well as slowing the aircraft on the ground, each brake pedal controlled the main wheel on that side of the aircraft and was used to steer on the ground, whilst the nose wheel simply followed the turn.
Easing out onto the taxiway, I was constantly going over the next procedures in my head as I followed the long taxiway to to our assigned runway 29 Centre. Nearing the top of the runway, I pulled into a little side apron called the runup bay, turned into the wind and applied the brakes. Here another check list was worked through involving, checking the twin magnetos were working normally, checking the carburetor heat was working or indeed that there wasn’t already ice in the carburetor. By now the oil temperature should also have climbed into the green, so that it was the right viscosity for full engine operation. Final checks, passengers all belted in, door firmly closed, off to the runway hold point.

It always intrigued me as I rolled toward the runway that here I was in this little cocoon on this piece of concrete, and soon after separating from the earth for a while I’d be on another piece of concrete or dirt hundreds of miles from here. No roads no signs. Pretty cool really.

Stopping before the yellow line that marked the transit from taxiway to runway, I changed the radio frequency from the ground control to the tower frequency. There wasn’t too much traffic using runway 29 centre so we should get an immediate departure.
I made my call. “Bankstown tower, India Bravo Xray, Cherokee, ready runway 29 centre, upwind departure with Charlie”. Which basically meant, my registration was IBX, the aircraft type was a Piper Cherokee, I was on the centre runway ready to takeoff to the west, as the runway number 29 signifies the compass heading of the runway which was 290 degrees. I was going to continue flying west after takeoff and I had received the automated weather forecast labelled C.

The reply came back. “IBX line up”.

As you turn onto a runway, and you’re lucky enough to score the best seat on a small plane, you feel like you sink into this big expanse of concrete as it spreads around you and ahead of you.  Trundling out to the centre line and pointing the nose along it, the tower comes back and gives clearance to go.  A last look around to make sure hatches and harnesses are secure, engine instruments in the green.  Lets rock and roll!

Pushing the throttle forward firmly yet gently, watching the instruments to make sure all stay in the green, we sluggishly started to move forward under fully laden weight.  Keeping the nose straight along the centre line with the rudder pedals the speed started to build up. The effectiveness of the flight control surfaces started to feel positive as the air passed more quickly over them. I was looking for 60 knots of airspeed at which time the aircraft should miraculously morph from an awkward ground insect to a slightly more graceful flying one.  The manual said so, and editors decision is final.

Sixty knots!  I gently apply some back pressure on the control column and the aircraft flies itself off the ground.  The rumbling of the wheels on the rough asphalt suddenly ceases and the rough motion changes to a smooth floating feeling.  Clear of the ground I control the speed with the angle of climb letting it build up to 80 knots and hold it there.  With a moderate amount of cross wind I adjust the heading a little into the wind so that the aircraft tracks out along the runway heading.  With three parallel runways which could also have departing aircraft, it is important not to encroach on their airspace.  Beneath us the houses, golf course and other suburban land marks passed beneath.  The great feeling of leaving the earth behind for a while is always a high point.

I was heading for 1,500 feet so I would pass over the top of inbound traffic, yet not get so high that I stray into Sydney International Airport controlled air space.  It creates a lot of paperwork and in a face off with a 747 I would most certainly lose.  At 1,500 I crossed the railway tracks to the west of the airfield and changed my radio frequency to that of the next airspace area I was entering.  A quick call to anyone who was in the area to advise I was tracking to be overhead Katoomba at 6,000.  If someone else is doing something similar they tend to come back pretty quickly to let you know they are there and to maintain separation.

Off to the left I was watching another local airfield called Hoxton Park to make sure someone wasn’t coming out of there.  Their circuit level was 500 feet below us but you never know.

Having noted the exact departure time I then went through my pre-prepared flight plan on my knee clipboard.  All our way-points were noted down with the time intervals between each, which I calculated just before departure using the forecast winds for the route.  I now knew exactly what time we would expect to be at each way-point I had marked down.  As I passed each I would note the actual time and then recalculate those still left to go.

The countryside had now changed from suburbia to flat farmland, although I noticed how just in the last few years much of the farmland had been given up to new housing estates.  It was a perfect winters day, very clear, and cold viscous air that the wings and propeller could really get their teeth into. Perfect flying weather.  In the distance ahead, the Blue Mountains lived up to their name with a definite blue hue.  This colouration is caused by the eucalypt vapour given off by the forests of gum trees.   The farmland ended at the Nepean River which winding its way from the South of Sydney to the north skirted the foot hills of the Blue Mountains.

Now that we were clear of the Sydney control zone airspace above us, I was now free to commence my climb to 6,000 feet.

The air was nice and smooth.  The heat thermals off the farmland would come later as the day progressed.

The scenery below now changed from orderly farmland to bush covered foothills of the Blue Mountains.  To the left I could see where there the Great Western Highway wound its way along ridge tops across the Great Divide.  A ribbon of civilisation marked its path through places like Springwood,  Hazelbrook and Linden on its way to the top at Katoomba.  I needed to be at 6,000 feet before Katoomba to allow for a lowest safe altitude of 1,000 feet above the local terrain.Katoomba

To the left now I could start to make out the large escarpments which Katoomba is famous for.  These long high cliffs were glowing yellow and red as the early morning sun caught them in its sights.  They spoke of ancient movements in this old land, where the mighty were left to stand while the weak subsided away.  It certainly was an awe inspiring and grand sight to behold.

I remembered in the back of my head the old maxim, “if you have time to look around as a pilot, you are forgetting to do something”.  Back to my navigation work.  I continued my regular visual sweep for other aircraft in the area.  The map in my lap had been pre-marked along my indented track with  six minute markers.  Once I had the forecast wind this morning, I marked in using the expected ground speed where I expected the aircraft to be every six minutes.  Now we were in the air I could measure our progress against this and determine whether we were travelling faster or slower than expected.  This aided me in working out our fuel reserves, as well as just knowing when we would arrive at our next point.  If for some unforeseen reason we had to make a diversion to the closest airfield, I had to know exactly where we were and whether we had enough fuel to get to a chosen point.

Katoomba passed below us.  I could see the lookout point where tourists go to view the escarpments as well as a rock formation called the Three Sisters.  All around us in every direction the land was bush covered and mountainous.  It made me feel good to see at least this much land without human interference. In that respect Sydney is very fortunate in that it has national parks to the north and south and the Blue Mountains to the west.  Lots of natural land regenerating oxygen.

Up ahead the mountainous terrain was changing to an undulating mixture of farmland and planted forests.  To the right were the cooling towers of the electricity station near Lithgow.  Up ahead was the town of Bathurst.  We were now on the West Slopes and up ahead the land would not rise to this height again before ending at the Indian Ocean, a continent away.  Our track would now take us over farmland that grew progressively flatter and drier until we reached our refueling stop at Condobolin.Condobolin Fuel Stop

Radio communication was maintained with the other aircraft in our group, some behind us and some ahead of us.  This enabled us to learn of the conditions up ahead.

Condobolin is a typical New South Wales country town with its airfield just on the outskirts.  Taxying in from the runway I located the refueling pumps and made my way over.  Another of our group was there just finishing their refueling and we all chatted while this was done. It was still a lovely sunny clear day with a cool breeze keeping the temperature down.  The world here was very flat and in every direction no hills could be seen.

Our colleagues finished their refueling and pushed their aircraft clear of the pump.  I then pulled my aircraft into the pump area.  The pump hose was on a very long reel so as to be able to reach both sides of an aircraft allowing for wingspan.  In each tank I took a reading by dipping the Jabiru stick into the tank and noting the fuel remaining.  Before bringing the fill nozzle anywhere near the aircraft, a metal cable with a clip was attached to an exposed metal part of the aircraft to earth any static build up of electricity.  This was to avoid an arc between aircraft and nozzle resulting in fuel being ignited.

Soon we were fueled up and ready to go again.  There is no control tower at these smaller regional airfields, but there is a documented frequency for each airfield and everyone departing or arriving in the area would switch to it and broadcast their intentions.  I called up that I was departing runway No X and then tracking to the west.  No one responded which after a good visual check I took to mean I was not going to be in conflict with aircraft in the area.  Our take off run was slightly longer than that at Bankstown as we were now 650 feet above sea level and the air was slightly warmer.

The next stage of the trip was going to be very much what they call clock and compass flying.  Because the land we would be over flying was very featureless it would be like flying over water.  No land marks to look for.  Having determined the wind, and calculating a heading to steer to achieve our desired track allowing for any cross, head or tail wind,  I then had to also workout what ground speed I expected allowing for the same wind conditions.  From this I could determine that by steering X course for X amount of time I could expect to see our destination at a given time.

I climbed back to 6,000 and setup the aircraft to fly the required heading.  The terrain before me now was like the sea, a featureless flat browny grey scrubby landscape stretching out forever in every direction.  I had to concentrate on my compass heading as any deviation for any length of time would possibly send us too far north or too far south of our destination.  The result would be that we flew past it without ever seeing it at all.

Up ahead I noticed some objects in the air.  I thought at first they were other aircraft, possibly some of our own party.  I was curious as to why they might be circling at this location .  As we got closer I could see that whatever they were, they were at or pretty close to our altitude.  I prepared to make a course change to avoid any conflict, when I made out that they were actually eagles soaring on thermals and just below our altitude.  I was surprised to see them this high, and couldn’t imagine what they would be doing here.  They were large birds and I was very wary of giving them a wide berth, as hitting one would  definitely cause enough damage to bring us down.

By my reckoning we were now getting close to our destination of Lake Mungo.

Lake Mungo is an ancient dry lake of significant anthropological significance.  On the eastern shore of the dry lake is a semi circle of white sand dunes called a lunette which I will talk more about in Part II.  Straining our eyes ahead we were eventually rewarded by a white tinge on the horizon. Of course in this flat endless country, it still meant it was a long way off.  It was rewarding to know that my calculations had worked and that my target had come up dead ahead as expected.

The lunette was starting to spread out in front of us now.  Beyond it we could make out the dry depression that was Lake Mungo.  Passing over the lunette which were the ancient sand dunes from the once water filled lake, we could see the undulations and hollows to be seen at any sea side dunes.  Here of course they had desert scrub in front of them and behind them.  Looking further ahead we could now make out Mungo Lodge, our destination, and the airstrip beside it.  The airstrip was was a red cross on the landscape.  Two runways, one running east/west and the other running north/south were unsealed red dirt.  Making my radio call to any local traffic I over flew the runways so that I could see the windsock on the ground.  From this I determined the runway to use by selecting the one that would allow me to land as close as possible to straight into the wind.  This would of course allow me to land with a slower ground speed and therefore require less distance to stop once on the ground.

Lining up on my selected runway, I set the aircraft up for landing and completed the check lists.  Everything was ready and I made my approach.  This was my first landing on a  dirt strip so I had to concentrate on getting my glideslope right.  The strip looked very narrow and very short from this angle compared to Bankstown.  The touch down was good, and I remembered in my training that on dirt strips you always keep the aircraft moving.  This reduces the likelihood of stones from the slipstream being picked up and hitting the propellor or other surfaces.  Turning off the strip I could see where other aircraft had parked so I taxyed over into the line.  As soon as I stopped I shutdown the engine to reduce dust and small stones being thrown backwards.

Well that was quite a flight, my first long cross country and I must say I enjoyed it and learned a lot too.  After completing the shut down check list we climbed out and enjoyed stretching our legs on solid ground.  Removing our baggage I then grabbed my tied down kit and went around the aircraft hammering my large tent pegs into the ground.  These were then tied to three anchor points on the aircraft loosely enough to let it have a little movement but tight enough to prevent the wind from being able to lift or move it too far.

Time to check ourselves in with our group.

Flight to Mungo Part II.

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Universal thoughts.

Reading a recent article about Einsteins’ theory on the ever spreading universe,  how everything is still flying apart at a faster and faster rate.  It got me to thinking.  I suppose that this falls in line with a big bang theory, were we have an explosion somewhere, and of course then everything is flying away from that point.  Stands to reason.

Maybe we aren’t just an electron making up a molecule in some huge beings’ fish and chip packet.  Surely in that case the movement of objects within this universe would be more benign and perhaps more random.  No, some other forces are at play here.  What of dark matter?  Where does that come into it all?

Well I think I have it!

We are not in someones fish and chip packet after all.  I believe we have managed to evolve in the middle of some snotty nosed kids’ lit fire cracker.  To us miniscule forms of life the initiation of this big bang happened incomprehensible units of time ago.  In actual fact, the boy who lit the cracker is still experiencing the thrill of blowing up his kid sisters doll, while he gets ready to shelter from the flying bits.  We are still in the cracker, and maybe in a few billion years we will emerge into the open air where the universe along with billions of other multiverses will separate at an even greater rate.

Now this obviously opens up a whole raft of questions.

For instance, what kind of world is it out there where kids are allowed to light their own fire crackers?!?

So now that we have this in perspective, where does it leave us?  We are in the infancy of space travel, and of course you would have to agree.  Very bad timing!  Everything is getting further and further apart.  This was something that our ancestors should have got right on top of straight away.  Distances were less, we could have got to other stars and back at least within one persons lifetime.  The obvious inference could that, well, maybe they did.

So, what of dark matter? That mysterious substance that is supposed to hold the secrets of the universe.  Well, what causes explosions and is black?  Gunpowder!  Yes it is gunpowder that started the whole party and it continues to show its effects around us.  The main explosion is propelling us away from its source, but in the middle of it all little sparks ignite everywhere in what we know as stars. Bits of junk fly around them, oh yes shouldn’t be too flippant we live on one of them.

So where was I?  Oh yes, here we are hurtling out of this fire cracker, lit by Godfrey. Sorry did I mention that the kids name was Godfrey. Probably not important.

We have black holes where the sparks have exploded and now as a reaction everything rushes back to fill the void created by everything exploding outwards before. Fascinating.

So where does it leave us?

Time is scalable.  Here we have young Godfrey enjoying milliseconds of joy as dolly gets spread to the four(making assumptions about four) winds.  Meanwhile within microscopic worlds, things are happening.  Life begins, goes through cycles and ends again.  Multiverses are created and destroyed.  Within those, empires are built and lost.  Religions are created to control those who empires can’t.  All this must happen before our particular spark dies out.    Each life form has its strength to allow it to survive in its particular situation.  Speed, stealth, camouflage etc.

After a time a different species evolves to a point where it finds that the brain is a useful tool and has the ability to grow this over an extended period of time.  They find they can outwit their prey by out-thinking them.  A very useful tool indeed.  A niche is found in the food chain and life is good.

Eventually (yes the dolly is still in early/mid flight) the brain starts to concentrate less on survival.  Now it could turn to other things, like making life more comfortable, and naturally for a self aware creature, wondering where it came from. Questions.  What do I look like?  Am I the same as those around me?  Am I the same as those I hunt?  I didn’t create myself so therefore there must be one greater then myself who did.  Life can only be given by someone with more power than myself, as I do not have the power to do this.

From it’s limited viewpoint it has to try and explain the existence of everything, including what it can’t even see beyond the limited range of vision.

So where next?

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Planking

So another unusual fad kicks in. I just read about Planking. What is Planking?

It seems that a growing group of individuals are making a pass time of finding public and unusual places to lie face down and flat on different surfaces. On park benches, across jerry cans of fuel, across dangerous railings etc.

Another internet craze.

What drives these crazes?  It is nice to be “out there” and do something different.  Make people sit up and wonder, “what the heck is this all about now?”  We all did strange things when we were younger, or at least we hoped those around us would think they were at least something to stop and wonder about.

Self expression?

In my youth we had a favourite whilst living in Kuala Lumpur, where we had a group of teenagers in a car and if stopped at the traffic light, someone would yell out “Chinese Fire Drill!”  Everyone would jump out of the car run around it and jump back in.  Often in different seats and often also there was a change of driver.  This would be watched by police in their little hut on the intersection, who knew they couldn’t touch us because of diplomatic plates on the car.

Today these pranks can reach a much more satisfying audience.  Through Youtube, Facebook and other social media sites, a craze becomes much more widespread.  In fact if you really work it well you can actually make money out of it.  So many marketing opportunities that didn’t exist before.

So if you feel like a rest today, just tell your boss you are planking.  You will need to get a photo of yourself of course and post it somewhere of course to make it believable.

Note: It seems that some players are taking dangerous risks in attempts to get that best planking shot.  That I know of one has died in Brisbane already, and possibly another injury in country New South Wales.  Have fun, but be very careful.

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What does Easter Mean to You?

                                                                              Aside from hunting for painted eggs, little fluffy chicks and bunnies. Easter for me was all about sailing.

In the five years I was back “home” in Paremata, between living in Samoa and living in Malaysia my Easters were completely taken up by sailing.
Back in the 1920s it was decided to have an Easter sailing regatta at Paremata, an inlet about 25 kilometers north of Wellington. Over the next decades this grew and grew, and people would come from all over the country to race. Our little village would become a tent city along the beach reserve and the nearby sports fields, complete with a forest of masts.  There were several years where it was arranged for the express train from Auckland to Wellington to stop at our little suburban station to allow the competitors from Auckland to offload their boats from special baggage cars that had been added to the train.  In short, this was a national highlight in the centre board sailing calendar.

By the time I came along the Easter Regatta had grown to be a four day event.  Two races each day.  There was a vast array of different boat classes; Moths, Z class(Takapunas), Javelins, Cherubs,  Finns, Ok Dinghys, R class and of course my beginner P class (Tauranga).  There were years when our P class numbered around 120, consequently we were broken up into four divisions, from beginners in D division to the most experienced in A division.

The morning of Good Friday was bustling with excitement always as sailors young and old(er) milled around in the club house.  Some would be queuing up to pay their entry fees for the races to come, others were catching up with people they might not have seen since the last major regatta.  Many were gathered in front of the wall where the race courses were laid out.  You could hear people discussing or simply speaking the course directions out loud so as to be sure to remember the details once on the water. “Shearers to port, e to starboard, Browns Bay to port, Brandons to port, Greys to starboard……………

The different styles of dress were also something to behold.  Many of the adult sailors had the latest and greatest gear with neoprene wet suit material and slick looking life jackets.  We kids on the other hand were dressed in our mothers old tights, several layers of woolen jerseys topped with a good old Mae West life jacket.  For those of us who hadn’t filled out yet, we would have trouble keep our boats level on windy days, so beforehand we would jump into the less than tropical sea and the woolen jersey would absorb enough water to make us heavier.  The wet jerseys were soon warmed by our bodies and with the life jacket keeping the wind off made for a nice cocoon of warmth.

Once courses were memorised and entry fees paid, we returned to our boats, either downstairs at the boating club jetty, or across the bridge to the beach on the other side of the inlet channel. We would tie the ribbon we got from registration to our stays so that the officials in the starting box would know to which division we belonged.

When there was a bit of wind noise on the beach was quite intense with flapping sails and halyards beating against aluminium masts.  A hive of activity as last-minute adjustments were made and people yelling out for room as they tried to get their boats to the water.   The inlet channel was only about 90 yards wide and the start line was between a stripe on the window of the starting box located on the third floor of the Club House and a flag pole on the beach.  The beach itself, because it bordered a tidal channel fell off very steeply.  It was always amusing to see newcomers stepping out into the water to get into their boats, only to disappear in water over their heads.

At ten o’clock the races would start. Each class would have their own start, beginning with the faster R classes, Moths, Finns, and working down to the slowest P classes.  A five minute count down preceded each class’ start, the minutes represented by a light in a panel below the starting box window.  Boats would jockey for position around the line, making dummy runs so as to be able to find the optimum place to be to make that final run for the line.  The object was to be in clear wind sailing at optimum speed and be just behind the line when the starting hooter went.  Those who crossed the line early, before the hooter, would be recalled to cross and recross the line before they were permitted to race on.

Local knowledge was very valuable in this inlet surrounded by tall hills.  Tidal currents ran strong, and winds could be very flukey as they gusted and eddied around the surrounding hills.  There were also sand bars aplenty for the unsuspecting boatie.

Back at the start line, there was much commotion as competitors yelled at each other for right of way and the ducking and diving of boats fighting for the best position.  Every minute one of the lights on the starting box would wink out, and everyone was either counting seconds in their head or glancing at waterproof watches to ensure timing was perfect.  The klaxon would blare and off they went, charging down the channel towards the first mark, “Shearers”.  The five lights would be up again for the next class of boats to begin their pre-start jockeying, and the whole procedure would start again.  After the larger class yachts had been released, there were only us P classes left.  First to start would be A division, the top end of the P class pecking order. These girls and boys would be around 15 years of age and would soon be moving on to larger boats.  For now however, they were the big fish in our little pond.

The starting line in the channel seemed quite restricted as the large number of P class A division took to the water.  There was prize money at stake here, and of course the kudos of being able to win against not only you own regular club adversaries but those from all over the country who took sailing seriously enough to bring their boats great distances.

Another explosive start, as the klaxon signaled the release of several dozen boats.  The tactics would vary depending on the direction of the wind and the state of the tide.  Being Easter the moon was generally full or nearly full, meaning that spring tides were likely.  This meant that the tides would alternately be very high and very low and the transition from one to the other would result in very fast running currents.

In the channel you would stick to the middle if the tide was coming in, to benefit from the ride on in coming current.  If it was outgoing you would stick to the extreme side to catch any back current or eddies and avoid fighting the opposing stream.  Of course the wind also was a major consideration and you wanted to stay as much to the windward side of the fleet to avoid falling into anyone elses wind shadow.  There would be a lot of banter going on as the fleet moved down the channel fighting for position and loudly proclaiming right of way if sea room was being encroached upon.

Very soon the first buoy called Shearers would loom ahead.  Loud shouts of “buoy room” would then start so that boats nearer the buoy would be ensured space to round the buoy without touching it.  The claim for “buoy room” could be made only if the boat lengths were overlapping.  If you were slightly behind you would then have to tuck in behind the leader and follow them round.  Touching the buoy would require the offending boat to make a complete circle around the buoy thereby losing valuable time.  Rounding the buoy had the effect of spreading the fleet out a little so it was a bit more of a line now rather than the bunch that approached the buoy.

Minor tussles were won and lost, tactics were employed successfully or otherwise.  The fleet approached Moorehouse Buoy which was the entrance to “The Bay”.

“The Bay” referred to the main body of water to the eastern end of the Pauatahanui Inlet, past the Golden Gate point.  The Inlet was broader here so waves had a chance to build up in windy weather, and the wind itself had more of an expanse of water to race across.

In windy or rough weather the Moorehouse buoy area would soon sort the men from the boys.  In a southerly wind one would sail clear of the wind shadow provided by Golden Gate point into the full strength of the wind, round the buoy and begin a beat to windward to make Browns Bay.  In a northerly however, the rounding could be far more treacherous.

The northerly wind would require a boat to change from a port tack to a starboard tack.  This is normally achieved by turning the boat into the wind and “going about”.  Changing tack with the wind behind you however, requires a maneuver called a “jibe” which is much more dramatic.  Rather than slowing down as the boat goes into the wind in the “going about” maneuver, the “jibe” is performed at speed as the wind is pushing the boat before it.  During that critical moment before the boom and sail whip from one side of the boat to the other, things become very unstable, the boat is trying to dig its bow into the waves which could result in an end over end flip, at the same time it becomes very unstable and could flip to either side very easily.  The term “jibo, swimmo” was coined to describe unsuccessful attempts at this maneuver.  As I said Moorehouse sorted the men form the boys, and if you got past this point you had successfully made it up the bay.

Depending on your class, you had to now sail a course which was a combination of upwind and downwind legs as well as a triangle taking you out to the eastern extremity of the bay.  Intense competition, sometimes in frustrating flat calm conditions, other times in tough windy conditions.

All would culminate in that last dash back down the channel to the club house finish line, maybe fighting neck in neck with a close rival, maybe miles ahead of the fleet, or straggling in the back.  Maybe even behind the crash boat with broken gear.

Once over the line it was back to the beach or club house jetty, into the club house and a bee line to the canteen servery.  There set up in rows were dozens of hot milky cups of tea, and we grabbed them eagerly to put some warmth back in our shivery bodies.  Normally I wouldn’t touch this beverage but it tasted so good.  Next it was over the bridge to the fish and chip shop to get a newspaper packet full of potato fritters and chips.  Heaven!

By the time we ate this, it was almost time to start inspecting the boat and get ready for the afternoon race which began at two o’clock.  This would be the pattern for the four days of Easter, totally immersed in sailing.

The Saturday night was reserved for a dance with a record player playing the latest songs in the large club rooms.  A great chance for us nearly teen agers to get up some courage to ask girls to dance.

Sunday started with Easter eggs at home over breakfast, then back down to the club.  In the afternoon the Championship race was held.  This involved everyone going “up the bay”, and the start was conducted from the committee boat, the Sylvia.  This is the more traditional way of starting a yacht race, and volunteers aboard the committee boat would hold up flags to signify the 5 minute count down, culminating in an aerosol hooter signifying the start time.  There was a lot more room to maneuver around the start line as it was not in a channel now, so real start line tactics could be employed to ensure you were sailing at full speed over the line when the hooter went, preferably in clear air with right of way over other boats that might oppose you.  Competition was fierce as there were trophies to be won in this race.

Our parents and other interested parties drove their cars from the club house to vantage points around the inlet to watch the progress of the race, then raced back again so they could park their cars and be ready to watch the finish of the race which was back in the channel before the club house.

Four days of intense racing, two races a day.  The Paremata Easter Regatta marked the end of the sailing season each year.  Friendships were made, gear was broken, lessons were learned, and a great time was had by all.  I am very glad I got to experience this special time.

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First Sail

Sea Hawke

Sea Hawke Comes Ashore

When you live on an island water is a very large part of life. For obvious reasons I suppose, as you are surrounded by so much of it.

In my early childhood I was lucky enough to live on a tropical South Pacific island. No winter, no heavy clothes, no shoes, and days at the beach all year round. How cool is that for a kid?
As it was an island, and it was the 1960′s, most things that our contemporaries were enjoying in more “developed countries” were not available to us. Our clothes and toys came through mail order from Sears Roebuck, or better still large parcels sent by my grandparents from Holland.

However, back to the water.

Someone had the brilliant idea of starting a sailing club for small centre board yachts. I know there were a few Heron class boats, a Flying Ant, and an Idle Along. It was a rag tag group and I assume these were either brought in on the banana boats from New Zealand or maybe had been assembled locally. The next question must have been, “how do the kids learn to sail?”

A group of our parents decided to initiate a wood working class at the local high school with the express purpose of building sailing skiffs for us kids. The finished product resembled an ironing board with a mast on top. Of course there were none of the required fittings available on our island home, so improvisation was required. For example; the fitting that joins the boom (piece of wood along the bottom of the sail) to the mast (well I think we all know mast) was a door hook with the hook part sawn off and resultant shaft rammed into a hole in the end of the boom. The sail was not made of any modern material such as dacron, but good old calico. Imagine the weight when it got wet.

Well finally the day came for the grand launch of my first boat, named Sea Hawk. Off we all went down to the beach. It was rigged up and really looked like a sailing boat so I was pretty proud. Into the water and people milling around wanting to see what would happen next. The waters are pretty calm around our island because of the surrounding coral reef, so quite an ideal and safe place to learn to sail.

Unbeknownst to anyone else, one of our family friends had noticed that one of the corks (bungs) that kept the water out of the internal cavity had popped out. Not thinking about the water that had probably entered the cavity, he helpfully put the bung back in its hole. No one any the wiser.

Time came for me to give my craft its first test run, I was going to sail off the beach a ways then turn and come back. With a friendly shove off the beach I put the centre board and rudder down as soon as it was deep enough and pulled in the sail. Feeling the wind fill the sail I sat on the windward side of the boat to keep it upright and off I went. This felt great, my first sail on my own and it was going well so far. Freedom.

The beach rapidly shrank behind me, so I felt it might be a good idea to turn around and make my way back from this first run. I confidently pushed the tiller away from me in order to make the boat turn into the wind and then go onto the opposite tack. My confidence was somewhat dented when the boat started to turn into the wind but then when it lost headway the turn also stopped, as if an invisible force was holding it back. I tried this several more times with the same result. This was novel, I had no idea what could be wrong.

I could hear commotion on the beach as parents and others were yelling out instructions. I looked ahead to see the pacific breakers crashing on the reef, which was still quite some distance away, but to an 8 year old seemed too close. I continued trying to turn the boat to no avail. I also tried going with the wind and performing a jibe, but long before the wind was behind me there was a mysterious heaviness that started to drive the front of the boat under water. This was a recipe for disaster so I turned back toward the wind and sailed in the only attitude it seemed to be happy with.

Behind me I noticed a Flying Ant was leaving the beach in my direction. I also saw someone in the water swimming with purpose, and realised it was my Dad chasing after me. Below me I noticed the water had become deeper than I was accustomed to. No sand now, but colourful rocks and corals. I didn’t want to look down too much as I certainly did not want to see a shark. If I didn’t see any, they wouldn’t exist.

I was now heading along the coast as opposed to straight for the reef which was nice in a way, but I was moving into a large bay which had once been the landing and taking of point for the old flying boats. To me I felt like I was on a huge ocean by myself. Behind me now I could see the Flying Ant was catching up at last. My Dad hitched a ride on it, and I could hear them calling to me.
Nice to have a bit of company out here. Soon enough they were close enough to talk to and they called out instructions once again but realised that the problem was not the way I was doing it so much as the boat not being willing to comply. The Flying Ant pulled alongside and I transferred into it while my Dad boarded Sea Hawk. He had no more luck than I did in turning the skiff. After a few tries, we in the Flying Ant grabbed the bow of the skiff and turned it around. This maneuver was performed a few times before we safely got both boats back to the beach.

This is when we discovered that the skiff was full of water and therefore all but unmaneuverable.

From that day everything else was plain sailing.

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The Bike

Isn’t it a grand feeling. Riding through the countryside with the wind in your face. The feeling of freedom as you cycle along paths, away from the noisy traffic and take in the smells of your surroundings. Stop along the way and admire the view while taking a good swig of refreshing water.

Thinking back, I remember when I was young and hadn’t mastered the art of bicycle riding. I had been riding my three wheel tricycle for a number of years. A big monster of a thing that I had to climb up a step on the back to reach the seat. Everything from America was big, and this offering from the Sears Roebuck catalogue, delivered to our island outpost was no exception. On our last trip back to “civilisation” my parents bought a 2 wheeler bike to bring back to the island. I hadn’t tried to ride it yet as it was quite big, but was very keen to. I sat and watched out of my bedroom window in the early morning as some of the bigger kids were out in the street riding their bikes which they would do every weekend as the adults slept in. Some of my friends were out there too. Particularly those with older siblings who matured a little more quickly.
The day finally came where my Dad took me out with my new unused bike and pushed me round the yard holding onto my seat as I got used to the feel of it. At one point I asked him a question and got no reply. It was then I realised he was no longer holding the bike and I had been under my own steam for some time. Of course as soon as realisation hit home I promptly fell off. I was now ready for the early morning bike congregation in the street.

That was more years ago then I care to think about. I am now the Dad and the world in many places is very different. We don’t really have kids playing on their bikes in the street. When my kids see their friends, it is either they go to the friends house which is a drop off in the car or the other way round. In either case taking a bike is not really an option. So what encouragement have they got to want to get out and ride? Rather than being asked to learn to ride, it was a case of parents suggesting and encouraging. The elder of my children at home is now a confident rider and we have done some good rides together. My youngest has been less interested and the journey to getting him on two wheels has been longer. Because he doesn’t see a great need, and also has yet to understand the freedom that comes with riding, he has to get over the hurdle of “it’s too hard”.
Yesterday we broke through. We went on a 7km return ride. It was very friendly terrain, flat, tree lined so lots of shade. He started out a bit wobbly, but settled into a pattern after a while. Nearing our destination for the lunch break, he started to struggle and wanted to give up. This is where it becomes fine line in how much do you push. Too much and the bike will never come out and see the light of day again. Not enough and we never progress past the basic stage.

I’m happy to say we pushed through the pain barrier and had an excellent ride on the homeward stretch. Not to mention a lot of extra riding when we got back to the start point.

I can see some good riding in the future.

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Third Culture Kid

Thoughts of an Adult Third Culture Kid as I read through the “Third Culture Kid – Growing up among worlds”

I thought I was getting a handle on this TCK stuff.  Back in January 2009 I was lucky enough to go back to Kuala Lumpur for a reunion of my International School of Kuala Lumpur classmates, in the actual location of where we were together.

It was a magical time, feelings of home and affinity. Surreal in a way.

Most importantly though I had probably one of the biggest revelations of my life.  Since leaving Kuala Lumpur at 17 years of age I had struggled constantly with feelings of not belonging, not being part of the culture in my “passport country”.  I was isolated geographically from all my old school friends, and for all my adult life I thought I was going through this alone.  The revelation came when during the 2009 reunion we were invited to record on video for the schools archive our experiences during our school days there, and other related things.  As I have written elsewhere already, I was stunned to hear the same feelings and stories being told by my old classmates.  People who I assumed had their lives together were speaking my words.

So, here almost two years and a bit of writing later, I am reading the TCK bible .

I was warned that I should be in the right frame of mind when I read it, and I can see why. As in January 2009, I am being confronted even further with details of how and why Third Culture Kids (TCK) go through the feelings they/we do.  I don’t normally like things to be over analysed, but the things I have read in the first half of the book really strike a chord with me.  Reading some of story extracts from different TCKs leaves me with a lump in my throat, as I know I could have written that exact story.   It has also caused me to think again about my “passport country”.  By the age of eighteen I had only spend half my life there, and not even in one hit.  I had learned to speak while in Holland, so my first language was not even that of my “passport country”.   Little wonder I felt no real affinity, and had trouble fitting back in.

“Growing Up Among Worlds” I started to get a bit more of an understanding of why I felt certain ways about life and people around meI don’t believe in being pigeon holed, but so many of the statements felt they were written about me.  Not in an “aren’t I wonderful” way, but wow here some I things i can identify with and isn’t it great there are others out there that also feel this way and understand it.

Being able to reconnect with all my TCK friends in the last two years through reunions and even just day to day stuff through Facebook has been a very powerful thing indeed.  It is a feeling of reconnecting with long lost family.  We may all have gone down very diverse paths in our walks of life, but the connections are strong and real.

I urge you to reconnect with your TCK family, and also recommend reading; Third Culture Kids: Growing Up Among Worlds”.


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